I need to replace the rear brake pipes that go from the ABS module to the interconnect in the rear of the truck (rusted). Do you know if the truck body needs to be lifted for these two lines? I've been reading that it might @oceanbrave , but after my investigation it seems like once you pop those line retainer clips you should have enough room? Would like to get best lessons learned on it.

 

usually yes you have to unscrew the body mounts on that side to give the clearance.

 

The topic was partially covered around the 1:24:00 point in
If you are making your own tubes I understand it's possible do the job without lifting the body. In this thread we talked about this subject and hummerz, bronxteck and MixManSC had some great advice (well worth reading)

I found it difficult to "finagle" the rear lines as bronxteck suggested, however I was constrained to working alone, outside, on a gravel driveway and at ground level which didn't help, plus I was using pre-formed tubes.

I was so glad I replaced all the lines, and not just the ones that failed initially, some of them broke in my hands, very alarming!

Initially I fixed the two rear short lines which had ruptured, then one of my master cylinder lines also ruptured as soon as I bled the system and put it under pressure, I think the gods were trying to tell me something.

Feel free to ask away on this subject.

 

Yes, you can easily install new brake lines, without lifting the body, with an a + a All you need to know: don't kink the bends.
If you are installing pre-bent lines, you maybe able to flex it, twirl it, temporarily bend it, to get through, just don't kink it, or you're f'd.
If you decide to body lift combined with a frame lift, remember: SAFETY FIRST, check; rock & push, before you crawl under.

 

Indeed safety 1st.

After working in and around the ABS module I now know what a gynecologist has to go through

Invest in a good set of flared-nut wrenches (Spanners here in UK) this link here is a UK example, there will be a US equiv. I even had to re-bend an additional wrench so I could tighten the front left line on the ABS Module, there just wasn't enough "angle" to use one tool alone. Avoid using open-ended or ring wrenches, especially 12 point ones, "rounding-off" a fitting would make life very difficult and not worth the risk.

The two rear lines are quite easy to access on the ABS Module, hopefully yours will not be as badly corroded as mine were. Should you have to remove your module, take care as the fittings may be "seized" and the tubes could "twist-off" when unscrewed.

Can one size of tube fit everywhere? I seem to recall there were two different diameters and numerous different fitting sizes and lengths.

I'd previously replaced my front-left line with Copper/Nickel, but after 2 years on UK roads it became very discoloured and corroded. Maybe it was a substandard pipe, or just the way it goes on our salty roads.

In retrospect my SS tubes still look like brand new and are definately eye catching.

At 1st I wished I could have paid someone to do the work, but I doubt anyone here in the UK could had done the job to the same level.

In any case hummerz or bronxteck to name a few on this forum, would be the only guys I would trust. May this stuff is easier to get done in the US?

 

I always cut the old line at the fitting with diagonal pliers, let it drain, then remove fitting with a 6pt socket wrench, take it to the vise, punch out the remainder part of the line, then clean the fitting with a bench grinder wire wheel. If fitting looks good after clean, I reuse on new line and flare new line(if not I replace, check thread fit, then flare). Common fittings found online or your local auto parts store.
Yes, the front lines are different diameter on the H2, check your old line before buying new. 3/16"-1/4"-5/16"., Personally, I only use "green line" copper/nickel/coated green, and I've never seen them rust after many years in service. I will be using the same one day on mine.

 

thanks Oceanbrave i appreciate that. i feel the same about your suggestions.

 

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Oceanbrave did your stainless lines ever snap back into the factory clips? mine where a bit bigger and popped back out when i was able to finally get them in.

 

bronxteck indeed I did struggle getting the lines to follow the original routes and stay clipped-in, in some instances I used a wide zip-tie to keep them grouped together and stop them popping-out. I don't think the clips llike having the lines prized-out, perhaps I shoul have bought new ones.

Also, some of the SS lines may have been formed slightly differently, particularly around the ABS Module. There I had to re-bend some to get them to fit, eg the MC2 line jammed against the chassis pushing the ABS Module out it's mount and at an angle, it's all very tight !

BTW the Tech2 helped, I used it to bleed the lines and depressurize the AS unit, very useful!