I recently looked at the power steering fluid on our 07 H2 when the car went in for a seal replacemement on the PS box. They fixed it under warranty, but did not change the fluid. It is brown, and smells a bit burned (same as before and after the fix). What color is it from the factory, red?

I would like to change it. What is the best procedure to get as much of the fluid out of the system as possible, without dismantling everything? This I assume would include emptying the reservoir, PS cooler, and maybe the lines and PS rack? Anyone have a step-by-step procedure for a complete flush?

Dealer wants over $300 for a "flush". Do they have special "flushing equipment"? It can't be that hard to do, is it? And the fluid is cheap....

Please Help!

 

Wish I could help but I got nothin on this... However, I'll keep an eye an ear open for some info cause I am about to start swap'n ALL the fluids...
Sorry I couldn't be of any help, hopefully someone will stop by & fill us in...

 

Bump on this, would also like to know how to flush the steering fluid...

 

give me a bit to dig up the article...there was a big write up on one of the full size chevy truck forums about it. Think TomP was in on that discussion.

 

can't believe I can't find that article...it was like 6 pages long. Here are the directions from the service manual. I would spend the extra and go w/ Royal Purple Synthetic PS Fluid. There is a noticable difference just running synthetic fluid through the system. Your brakes and steering will apprechiate it.

 

Thank you bflorin!

 

Further note that it is unbelievable easy to burn the fluid in our systems. They synthetic dramatically raises that burning temp up but can still burn itself. If you get into a situation where your front wheels are hitting some resistance (like wedged in rocks or deep heavy wet snow) and you are also hard on the brakes at the same time- The fluid is probably cooked. I check my PS fluid at every oil change.

Ill also add that if you are fighting your steering in parking lot manuevers or low speed- switching to synthetic will aleviate a small portion of that. GM half assed the steering on all our rigs and trucks. If you want to completely eliminate the lack of steering assist & add some additional braking assistance- Call AGR Performance and order one of their high pressure power steering pumps. It will run you $300-400, but it is so worth it! You will not believe the difference a real pump makes on our system. I can damn near literally throw my steering wheel at complete stop and turn my 38's on dry pavement. If I would of known how much of a difference just swapping out that pump makes to drivability- It would of been my very first mod. There are not alot of mods you do to your rides that make you smile for the next week while driving it...this one definately will.

 

Do the 08 and 09 models of the H2 have a better steering pump or is it still a ****ty one?

 

Its the same unit for all year H2's. I think the new full size trucks are still using that same pump. Atleast the 2011's did.

If you have any type of resistance or dead spots in your steering its from lack of pressure.

I've suggested this to a couple other people, no one has actually tried this yet. I didn't because I physically snapped the power steering pump shaft right in half. Only thing holding the pulley on was the serpentine belt pressure....pretty scarey. If you call AGR Performance they might sell you the spring pressure regulator that goes in the back side of the ps pump. That might make enough of a difference to not have to completely put in a new pump. I can't imagine that little piece would be more than $45 or so.

I had my AGR pump build w/ a chromoly shaft, thrust needle bearings, and what ever else they could do to make it bulletproof.

If anyone is going to go this route, I would also recommend ordering the pump w/ the tank (ready to install) preinstalled & w/ a pulley. Its not really hard to take those components off your old power steering pump and putting them on the new pump...but if you havn't done it before- it can be a little fustrating and you will eliminate 1-2 hours of removing and swapping ****.

 

When I did mine, I used a shop vac and just sucked out the old fluid then added new fluid, then repeated it again, I know this isn't the right way but it worked.