Please help figure out starting issue!
#61
What do you think that means? Should I have it retested again? (Even with the Hummer not running it has 12.6 volts and it only drops to 12 volts when the starter does actually start). 10 volts seems a bit low to me. But 14 volts does seem a bit high. What all this means.....I'm clueless lol
Voltage Drop Test
#62
It required 14 volts to engage starter.
Voltage Drop Test
https://youtu.be/DfLyh43iihM?si=judn3SBhUwtEw63s
Voltage Drop Test
https://youtu.be/DfLyh43iihM?si=judn3SBhUwtEw63s
Oh, I see. That is interesting if that's what the "14 volts" meant, is that it required 14 volts to operate.
And I have been binge watching Shrodinger's Cat and ScannerDanners channel this last week trying to learn all I can about electrical systems and troubleshooting.....I even watched that exact video lol. It's a bit late and I'm tired, so can I just ask directly risking looking stupid.....what was your reason for posting that video link? (As we did about every test possible including voltage drop tests in this thread already). Voltage only drops about half a volt (from 12.6 down to around 12.1 volts) at the main stud on starter when cranking. Is there something I'm missing? If the starter "requires" 14 volts on a bench test (without a actually load) to me, that just says something is wrong with the starter.....no?
#63
at 14 volts it was drawing 78 amps unloaded, the important thing is the bendix was fully extending so the starter solenoid appears to be working
If as you have posted form your testing that while cranking the battery voltage at the starter drops from 12.6 to 10.2 if I remember correctly allowing for your meter inaccuracy then that's what I would expect your truck to do with the correct battery along with the voltage on the purple wire being 10.5 to 11 volts then the truck should start if all else is good.
With the starter bench tested by Oriellys and it checking good then to me that pretty much leaves us with the pinion gear binding on the flywheel which is preventing the bendix from fully extending therefore not closing the solenoid contacts to engage the starter motor
As you have stated the OEM starter normally doesn't require shimming but there is always that one off situation where things don't always follow the norm.
the easy thing to do to check this theory is to pick up some shims and stick them in there and try it.
If as you have posted form your testing that while cranking the battery voltage at the starter drops from 12.6 to 10.2 if I remember correctly allowing for your meter inaccuracy then that's what I would expect your truck to do with the correct battery along with the voltage on the purple wire being 10.5 to 11 volts then the truck should start if all else is good.
With the starter bench tested by Oriellys and it checking good then to me that pretty much leaves us with the pinion gear binding on the flywheel which is preventing the bendix from fully extending therefore not closing the solenoid contacts to engage the starter motor
As you have stated the OEM starter normally doesn't require shimming but there is always that one off situation where things don't always follow the norm.
the easy thing to do to check this theory is to pick up some shims and stick them in there and try it.
#64
at 14 volts it was drawing 78 amps unloaded, the important thing is the bendix was fully extending so the starter solenoid appears to be working
If as you have posted form your testing that while cranking the battery voltage at the starter drops from 12.6 to 10.2 if I remember correctly allowing for your meter inaccuracy then that's what I would expect your truck to do with the correct battery along with the voltage on the purple wire being 10.5 to 11 volts then the truck should start if all else is good.
With the starter bench tested by Oriellys and it checking good then to me that pretty much leaves us with the pinion gear binding on the flywheel which is preventing the bendix from fully extending therefore not closing the solenoid contacts to engage the starter motor
As you have stated the OEM starter normally doesn't require shimming but there is always that one off situation where things don't always follow the norm.
the easy thing to do to check this theory is to pick up some shims and stick them in there and try it.
If as you have posted form your testing that while cranking the battery voltage at the starter drops from 12.6 to 10.2 if I remember correctly allowing for your meter inaccuracy then that's what I would expect your truck to do with the correct battery along with the voltage on the purple wire being 10.5 to 11 volts then the truck should start if all else is good.
With the starter bench tested by Oriellys and it checking good then to me that pretty much leaves us with the pinion gear binding on the flywheel which is preventing the bendix from fully extending therefore not closing the solenoid contacts to engage the starter motor
As you have stated the OEM starter normally doesn't require shimming but there is always that one off situation where things don't always follow the norm.
the easy thing to do to check this theory is to pick up some shims and stick them in there and try it.
Ok. How many shims do you think I should try?
#67
Frustrating update on the shims. Bought a pack of shims that looked close/like they would work but when got home and opened pack, they don't like up with both holes. Returned and went to GM dealership and every other parts store in town, and no one has ships that fit our starters........any ideas where to get some or what to do? (My only thought is using washers)
#70
It's always seemed to work better "cold" or act up more "warm". Wether it was early on and it only acted up 1 in 20 starts or wether it's now and it only starts 1 in 20 tries.
But aren't we at the end.....where by tests it can only be the starter itself?
1. Jumper cables run from battery down to starter not working eliminated the main hot and ground to starter....
2. Jumper cables as extra ground from starter housing to block, starter housing to frame, starter housing to negative battery terminal......not working....further eliminates any grounding issue....
3. Jumper cables from our other truck (2007 Yukon) to the Hummers battery.....not making a difference eliminates the Hummers battery. (And it tested good under load test at O'Reilly's).....
4. Using a small 18 gauge jumper wire from the "S Stud" to the "Main hot stud" on the starter not starting it....... eliminates ALL ignition side..... correct? (Eliminates ignition switch, neutral safety switch, AND things like the PCM, body modules, relays, ect correct?)