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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
Here is another interesting discovery I stumbled across about the GM factory LS oil pan gasket. It has seam in the metal where it is joined together and exactly where the leak seems to happen.
This seam or joiner does not exist on the Felpro replacement and all the guys on the LS forums recommend the use of the Felpro gaskets over the GM ones, not surprising and what I will use if the leak should start again.
[QUOTE=H2-SUT;394823]Clsimmon I was reading your post and saw you UV oil leak issue an the right rear corner of the oil pan and thought back to last year when I had the same problem with my 08. I thought I would share this picture from last year and explain what I did.
I removed the trans bell housing bolts and cleaned the crap out of the oil pan to engine seam. Using a combination of dremel tool with wire brush and brake clean solvent I really made it spotless and made sure there was no oil residual and applied some Permatex 82194 Ultra Gray Rigid High-Torque RTV silicone around the area. Originally the oil would leak down the starter bolt closest to the block then drip on the trans cooler lines where the wind would blow it back onto the bottom of the bell housing. It took some time to find it but I finally did (doing the same thing you did). I debated on just pulling the pan and replacing the gasket but I had no other leaks so I used a trick that I had used in the past on an old transfer case that had a leak at the seem and so far (knock on wood) its holding up just fine. Here's a pic, It's not pretty but so far a year later not a drop. Lol, so the trick is to just gob on a bunch of sealer? Hey, if it works.
Clsimmon I was reading your post and saw you UV oil leak issue an the right rear corner of the oil pan and thought back to last year when I had the same problem with my 08. I thought I would share this picture from last year and explain what I did.
I removed the trans bell housing bolts and cleaned the crap out of the oil pan to engine seam. Using a combination of dremel tool with wire brush and brake clean solvent I really made it spotless and made sure there was no oil residual and applied some Permatex 82194 Ultra Gray Rigid High-Torque RTV silicone around the area. Originally the oil would leak down the starter bolt closest to the block then drip on the trans cooler lines where the wind would blow it back onto the bottom of the bell housing. It took some time to find it but I finally did (doing the same thing you did). I debated on just pulling the pan and replacing the gasket but I had no other leaks so I used a trick that I had used in the past on an old transfer case that had a leak at the seem and so far (knock on wood) its holding up just fine. Here's a pic, It's not pretty but so far a year later not a drop. Lol, so the trick is to just gob on a bunch of sealer? Hey, if it works.
Obviously the correct way to fix it would be to remove the oil pan completely, clean the surfaces so they are spotless and replace the gasket with a Felpro aftermarket. The reason these leak in the first place IMO is because of the seam in the gasket that allows oil to sneak between the 2 halves and seep out. This fix while not great looking solves the problem. For me as long as it is no longer leaking I see no reason to go through all the effort of pulling the pan. One thing you must really clean the surface where the RTV will be applied carefully and completely, any oil or residue and its a nogo and your just wasting your time.
Its been on there for some time now and it looks just as it was when I put the sealant on there with zero leaks.
Update: I loosened the lower 2 bell housing bolts that attached to the rear of the oil pan and re-torqued all of the oil pan bolts on the rear of the pan. Many of them required several turns. I torqued the bell housing bolts and the truck continued to leak as before. Assuming I would drain the oil and replace the gasket, I put 6oz of Seafoam in the crankcase which I always do 10% before the DTC tells me to replace the oil to clean out the crankcase.
To my surprise, the oil pan has nearly completely stopped leaking. I went from a continuous dribble of oil to just a few drops on clean cardboard every 7 days.
I'm assuming it's a combination of the re-torque of the bolts, the Seafoam, and a time, or just re-torque and some time; not sure. Nonetheless, the gasket and my time see another day.
Its good you loosened the bell housing bolts, you can tighten the oil pan bolts and it does no good until you loosen the bell housing bolts. The oil pan won't pull up closer to the block because the bell housing bolts stop that from happening. I think in the service manual they tell you to tighten all of the oil pan bolts to spec before you install and tighten the bell housing bolts. I think you may have finally resolved your oil leak, 2 fingers crossed for you!
07-26-2022, 03:57 PM
