My 2007 h2
#81
It’s going to be really close to 2,100 including taxes and a 3 year warranty for parts and labor. 100 more and I could get a 5 year warranty but I haven’t made up my mind yet. I’m having the front 2 axle bushings replaced and they are 190 for both but not included in the 2,100. We have Adams drive shafts here and he has done gears and drivelines for me since 1999 and his price was about the same but I don’t get the warranty.
#82
I never tow with mine but mine also holds the 190 mark even in the dead of summer here in AZ when its 120+ degrees. That is with a complete stock cooling system, never been flushed since I've owned it either lol. I do plan on going your route H2Miami, using an aftermarket aluminum radiator. I've used BeCool in the past in my old Camaro and while they are beautifully built radiators, I can't see justifying the money they want for them. Back in the day they were never the price they are now. The ONLY reason I would be doing it would be to do away with the potential leaking issues with the internal tranny cooler. Other than that, the factory cooling system seems to be more than adequate for my needs.
I think Be Cool is overpriced too. I tried to search and google but I couldn’t find a lot of information on any others and finally I found a Champion and also a Mishimoto but that was after I had already shipped my radiator off. I don’t care what brand I have I just didn’t want to be the Guinea pig.
#83
I had my door lock rod fall off drivers door keyed lock assembly. I removed the door panel and looked and felt around for it and I even used a magnet to get behind the window channel. Called dealer and she said they don’t just sell the clip you have to buy the 120 lock assembly. I found the clip on EBay for 8 dollars and I should get it by the 3rd. My steps don’t work because I have all the switches unplugged and it’s a stretch just to get in. I hope I can get the clip on with the window in.
#84
I'd think you would be able to. If you want it fast they have assortment packs of those clips at auto part stores too. Most likely one from this kit https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28884-75450.aspx but they have other kits too.
#85
I'd think you would be able to. If you want it fast they have assortment packs of those clips at auto part stores too. Most likely one from this kit https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28884-75450.aspx but they have other kits too.
This holds the flat plate on that connects to the rod
#86
#87
does it do the same function as an E clip? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
#89
Ahhh that is a door lock pawl retainer. The pawl is the bit that is on the end of the cylinder that the cylinder turns.
I believe I replaced one in the past with a push on eclip and it worked just fine. The correct piece would be ideal though.
Have you thoroughly checked in the bottom of the door for it? Maybe with a magnet, might even need to use a knife or something as it might even be wedges a bit in the seam since it is so thin.
I believe I replaced one in the past with a push on eclip and it worked just fine. The correct piece would be ideal though.
Have you thoroughly checked in the bottom of the door for it? Maybe with a magnet, might even need to use a knife or something as it might even be wedges a bit in the seam since it is so thin.
#90
i would not be surprised about that.
i just noticed yesterday both of my door locks have a thin horizontal line on the plastic surround, it starts at the center of the lock hole and shoots horizontally t'words the edge of the plate. i have never seen those lines there. the door paint does not look disturbed though like if someone tried prying it.
i just noticed yesterday both of my door locks have a thin horizontal line on the plastic surround, it starts at the center of the lock hole and shoots horizontally t'words the edge of the plate. i have never seen those lines there. the door paint does not look disturbed though like if someone tried prying it.