Not sure if this is a bad actuator. So I was doing a stereo install and had the battery disconnected and that's when I lost vents, worked fine before that. Basically, when it's started up, I get air thru the dash vents but then it starts clicking under the dash and I can hear/feel it so it's that driver's side one for sure, but once it stops clicking then the dash vents close off and it's only floor/def. It will not adjust to vents after that. Only thing that fixes it is shutting it off and the it resets and the vents are open again, I can then yank the actuator power before it starts clicking or as long as it's not fished clicking and I'll have vents.

I've tried disconnecting the battery for 10 mins and starting it up, it just does that whole sequence, vents open, then clicking then they close off. It's 90 plus degrees so I need the vents so for now I just have them manually opened before they close off and I have that actuator unplugged.

Bad actuator? I take it this is a dash removal because I can't work under there and get the screws removed, no way. I can barely reach under there and unplug/plug it in but I've gotten pretty good now and feeling for it, can do it pretty quick. The passenger's side I've replaced already, that's basically hot air on the driver's side if that goes out. Actually, the actuator was missing, just didn't have one installed when I bought my H2, so that fixed that one.

 

I would start with a calibration of the actuators,

you can give the non-scanner calibration a try but this process is hit and miss, find someone with a tech2 and have them run the calibration if that don't work then its probably the actuator

Neal