Hummer H2 Air Compressor
#1
05-08-2019 | 11:26 AM
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 2
Hummer H2 Air Compressor
Hey everyone. I've attached a couple photos of the old compressor on my 2003 Hummer H2 and the new one I got from RockAuto.
I was planning on swapping them out today but when I dropped the old one out I noticed a lot of the fittings are different. Did I purchase the wrong compressor or is this an updated version of the previous?
I understand where the three small hoses for the two air bags and tire inflator go but I'm having a hard time figuring out the rest.
#2
05-08-2019 | 12:12 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,319
From: SC
GM changed to a dual compressor.... so yes there are some differences. You will also need access to a Tech2 to recalibrate the height after its installed. You could probably install it and then just go to any Chevy dealer and get them to do that. They will probably not have the calibration blocks for that though. On mine I just used a pair of jack stands and then with the jack set the rear end at the correct height on the stands and then ran the calibration. The below info along with the attached PDF will be helpful.
From the GM eSI system...
The single rear air suspension compressor used on the 2003 and 2004 HUMMER H2 has been discontinued and is replaced with the dual air compressor used on the 2005 model. The dual compressor can be used to service the prior model vehicles. The Service Parts Catalog will direct you to order the new dual compressor, part no. 89060581 and indicates that you will also need inflator pipe #15117941 and intake and exhaust pipe assembly #15117942. Refer to the 2005 installation instructions contained is SI Document No. 1457105.
You may encounter a " SERVICE AIR SUSPENSION " message after replacing the Air Suspension Compressor Assembly from a single stage compressor to a dual stage compressor. The Suspension module may also have a current or history code C0660 and/or C0712.
The single rear air suspension compressor used on the 2003 and 2004 HUMMER H2 has been discontinued and is replaced with the dual air compressor used on the 2005 model. The dual compressor can be used to service the prior model vehicles. The Service Parts Catalog will direct you to order the new dual compressor, part no. 89060581 and indicates that you will also need inflator pipe #15117941 and intake and exhaust pipe assembly #15117942. Refer to the 2005 installation instructions contained is SI Document No. 1457105.
You may encounter a " SERVICE AIR SUSPENSION " message after replacing the Air Suspension Compressor Assembly from a single stage compressor to a dual stage compressor. The Suspension module may also have a current or history code C0660 and/or C0712.
Recommendation/Instructions:
When replacing the Air Suspension Compressor from a single stage to a dual stage. Do not SPS program the replacement module that comes with the new dual stage compressor. The new module comes preprogrammed and a trim height calibration is the only thing needed after replacement. The trim height calibration can be found in the Tech 2 scan tool under Chassis / Air Suspension / Special Functions.
Note: If a Air Suspension Control module is SPS programmed on a dual stage compressor and the following codes listed above are set, the module will have to be replaced.
This Installation section of this procedure has been revised to add a step for pressurizing the air springs as shown below:
8. Remove the support from the compressor.
Important: If the rear axle was allowed to hang unsupported, lower the vehicle far enough to allow the air spring to be manually engaged to the support on the axle tube with minimal distortion of the air spring bladder. Ensure that the air spring is fully engaged to the axle support.
9. Pressurize the air springs. Refer to Air Suspension Pressurization Procedure.
10. Perform the suspension position calibration procedure. Refer to Suspension Position Calibration.
11. Check for leaks. If a leak is found at the air supply line connections replace the air supply lines. Refer to Air Suspension Air Line Replacement.
Note: If a Air Suspension Control module is SPS programmed on a dual stage compressor and the following codes listed above are set, the module will have to be replaced.
This Installation section of this procedure has been revised to add a step for pressurizing the air springs as shown below:
8. Remove the support from the compressor.
Important: If the rear axle was allowed to hang unsupported, lower the vehicle far enough to allow the air spring to be manually engaged to the support on the axle tube with minimal distortion of the air spring bladder. Ensure that the air spring is fully engaged to the axle support.
9. Pressurize the air springs. Refer to Air Suspension Pressurization Procedure.
10. Perform the suspension position calibration procedure. Refer to Suspension Position Calibration.
11. Check for leaks. If a leak is found at the air supply line connections replace the air supply lines. Refer to Air Suspension Air Line Replacement.
#4
04-02-2023 | 10:49 AM
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 43
From: South Portland, Maine
MixManSC, VBLocal89, I am replacing the air ride compressor in my 2003 H2. So this means swap from the single compressor assembly to the updated dual compressor unit.
From my research on this and related threads this seams to be plug and play from wiring harness perspective, but as MixManSC mentions, optimally I would need the new inflator pipe #15117941 and intake and exhaust pipe assembly #15117942. These are no longer available anywhere, that I can find. Any guidance on options? VBLocal89, were you successful replacing your compressor and could you share any guidance?
Background is that while my 2003 is low mileage, only 48k miles, and nice enough for car shows, it has been used year round in Maine and the frame has rusted through in a couple spots. I like the truck and don't want to spend $80k a new one. Not to mention all the new trucks are like appliances. No soul. I've sourced a perfect 2006 frame and compressor and having it transplanted.
Thank you!
From my research on this and related threads this seams to be plug and play from wiring harness perspective, but as MixManSC mentions, optimally I would need the new inflator pipe #15117941 and intake and exhaust pipe assembly #15117942. These are no longer available anywhere, that I can find. Any guidance on options? VBLocal89, were you successful replacing your compressor and could you share any guidance?
Background is that while my 2003 is low mileage, only 48k miles, and nice enough for car shows, it has been used year round in Maine and the frame has rusted through in a couple spots. I like the truck and don't want to spend $80k a new one. Not to mention all the new trucks are like appliances. No soul. I've sourced a perfect 2006 frame and compressor and having it transplanted.
Thank you!
#5
04-04-2023 | 06:02 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 824
From: Pacific NW
Exhaust/intake is low pressure. OEM was still available last year. Maybe u r using an old part #. Expensive hose.
Just make your own with SMC brand tubing. = same stuff used in later Hummers. Check my historical posts on this elsewhere on forum.
Intake pipe and Filter is nothing but a filter. Make one or use a motorcycle or small lawnmower engine air filter, Reposition it away from mud splatter as that is what kills the compressors. Mud in the lines.
Just make your own with SMC brand tubing. = same stuff used in later Hummers. Check my historical posts on this elsewhere on forum.
Intake pipe and Filter is nothing but a filter. Make one or use a motorcycle or small lawnmower engine air filter, Reposition it away from mud splatter as that is what kills the compressors. Mud in the lines.
Last edited by finall; 04-04-2023 at 06:15 PM.
#6
04-04-2023 | 06:06 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 824
From: Pacific NW
For the OP, intakes are the large brass colored intakes on the left side in your photo, one on each compressor.
Filtered Intake line splits into 2 hoses, one for each. Just get some more black SMC hose and a brass or SS “T” for that.
Filtered Intake line splits into 2 hoses, one for each. Just get some more black SMC hose and a brass or SS “T” for that.
#7
04-04-2023 | 06:12 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 824
From: Pacific NW
In Mixman’s procedure, note!!!!!!!! That components, including module, are no longer available separately. You screw this up, and you brick the module, and buy another complete compressor assembly.
No such thing anymore as “ replace the module”
No such thing anymore as “ replace the module”
#8
04-05-2023 | 12:06 PM
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 43
From: South Portland, Maine
Thank you finall.
I did have all the superceded tube part numbers and called everywhere. No luck, so must have run out of old stock. Yes, they were very expensive, but I sure would like to have been able to get them. Im pretty obsessive when it comes to keeping my cars bone stock OEM. Gets harder and harder with each passing year.
finall, In your first response you suggested creating a new, second intake with filter, but in second response it looks like your sharing that the stock intake sources from a single filter then the line splits to each compressor. So sounds like I can just T off from the existing intake to split. Oceanbrave was concerned if splitting the original single line/filter would starve the compressors, but if thats how they come from factory, should be good.
I have noted the concern of bricking the module! This is scary! If Im interpreting Mixman correctly, this would only occur if you do an SPS program update to the air ride module. I dont have SPS and dont imagine any need to have a dealer or anyone perform such an update. Please do correct me if its more risk than Im understanding. I would be doing the Tech2 ride height calibration. Actually will use a SnapOn ScanTool which Ive used to do the calibration in the past.
Thank you!!
I did have all the superceded tube part numbers and called everywhere. No luck, so must have run out of old stock. Yes, they were very expensive, but I sure would like to have been able to get them. Im pretty obsessive when it comes to keeping my cars bone stock OEM. Gets harder and harder with each passing year.
finall, In your first response you suggested creating a new, second intake with filter, but in second response it looks like your sharing that the stock intake sources from a single filter then the line splits to each compressor. So sounds like I can just T off from the existing intake to split. Oceanbrave was concerned if splitting the original single line/filter would starve the compressors, but if thats how they come from factory, should be good.
I have noted the concern of bricking the module! This is scary! If Im interpreting Mixman correctly, this would only occur if you do an SPS program update to the air ride module. I dont have SPS and dont imagine any need to have a dealer or anyone perform such an update. Please do correct me if its more risk than Im understanding. I would be doing the Tech2 ride height calibration. Actually will use a SnapOn ScanTool which Ive used to do the calibration in the past.
Thank you!!
#9
04-05-2023 | 12:21 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 824
From: Pacific NW
I too am super obsessive with staying with OEM parts. So this is how you keep the OEM look:
1. Your 2nd paragraph is correct. The OEM setup is a single filter right behind the RL tire. This is one of the stupidest GM placements I have ever seen. And worst, non-serviceable filter designs I have ever seen, and I have seen a lot of stupid GM engineering over my lifetime.
Very bad location, fills with mud, and kills the compressor.
So you relocate that. Then you T off the single line to the 2nd compressor. You should clean out the filter or replace it. It is just a thick piece of felt. You have to heat up and lube the rubber jacket to slip it off down the line so you do not tear it. Then open up the plastic holder for the filter.
I lengthened my OEM line (see below) and strapped the filter behind the gas filler nect via taking off the filler neck bucket for access. No mud up there.
2. Correct on the SPS.
In my case, I did NOT have to use a Tech2 to recalibrate anything. The vehicle rose to its proper height. But I was replacing a dual-stage with another duel-stage compressor.
The Tech2 is useful for lowering the vehicle to do the work. But that is not required if the system is depressurized already and riding on the axles. If pressurized, one can wiggle lose one of the lines off the top of an airbag and that will cause air to leak out of the system. Make sure you do not get crushed when doing that from underneath. ie. Jacks, blocks, lift, safety stuff.
3. Tubing comes in a variety of colors. OEM is black, and I already had some on hand so I used that. I also have an extra roll of clear and tons of the black stuff I use as shop air compressor lines, but I live in Canada so shipping to the USA would be expensive.
Clear is good, as you can see the mud in the lines, but not OEM look. And it will yellow over time.
Brand: SMC
Type: polyurethane tubing
Size: 3/8" OD (approx 7/32" ID)
Length: 20 Meters (66 feet) - maybe smaller lenghts available.
Color: Clear - so you can see any mud or water in the line!!
SMC part Number: TIUB11C-20 (Clear).
You can look up the black color. It is identical to what GM uses, and they likely get it from them.
You can mold elbows into it with a heat gun. It will just go super limp all of a sudden, so have a jig ready for the bends if you need to do bends. You have to apply mondo heat, so gloves required. Experiment with an extra piece first. Complete OEM look achieved for fraction of price.
Hope this info helps.
1. Your 2nd paragraph is correct. The OEM setup is a single filter right behind the RL tire. This is one of the stupidest GM placements I have ever seen. And worst, non-serviceable filter designs I have ever seen, and I have seen a lot of stupid GM engineering over my lifetime.
Very bad location, fills with mud, and kills the compressor.
So you relocate that. Then you T off the single line to the 2nd compressor. You should clean out the filter or replace it. It is just a thick piece of felt. You have to heat up and lube the rubber jacket to slip it off down the line so you do not tear it. Then open up the plastic holder for the filter.
I lengthened my OEM line (see below) and strapped the filter behind the gas filler nect via taking off the filler neck bucket for access. No mud up there.
2. Correct on the SPS.
In my case, I did NOT have to use a Tech2 to recalibrate anything. The vehicle rose to its proper height. But I was replacing a dual-stage with another duel-stage compressor.
The Tech2 is useful for lowering the vehicle to do the work. But that is not required if the system is depressurized already and riding on the axles. If pressurized, one can wiggle lose one of the lines off the top of an airbag and that will cause air to leak out of the system. Make sure you do not get crushed when doing that from underneath. ie. Jacks, blocks, lift, safety stuff.
3. Tubing comes in a variety of colors. OEM is black, and I already had some on hand so I used that. I also have an extra roll of clear and tons of the black stuff I use as shop air compressor lines, but I live in Canada so shipping to the USA would be expensive.
Clear is good, as you can see the mud in the lines, but not OEM look. And it will yellow over time.
Brand: SMC
Type: polyurethane tubing
Size: 3/8" OD (approx 7/32" ID)
Length: 20 Meters (66 feet) - maybe smaller lenghts available.
Color: Clear - so you can see any mud or water in the line!!
SMC part Number: TIUB11C-20 (Clear).
You can look up the black color. It is identical to what GM uses, and they likely get it from them.
You can mold elbows into it with a heat gun. It will just go super limp all of a sudden, so have a jig ready for the bends if you need to do bends. You have to apply mondo heat, so gloves required. Experiment with an extra piece first. Complete OEM look achieved for fraction of price.
Hope this info helps.
Last edited by finall; 04-05-2023 at 12:32 PM.
#10
04-05-2023 | 01:00 PM
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 43
From: South Portland, Maine
This is super helpful finall! Thank you for taking the time! Background is that the frame on my otherwise pristine 2003 with 45k miles has rusted through in a couple spots. I live in Maine and do drive it year round, even if not many miles. Going to make the "investment" of frame transplant and lots of stuff while Im at it. Figure I may as well update the compressor even though the original is still doing its job. Ive sourced a really clean "newer" frame and dual compressor. I have a good resto-mod shop lined up to do the heavy lift work. Now just planning the work and getting all my replacement parts.
thanks again!
thanks again!