Thanks @finallhere's the thing, no I'm not vaxed (can't be) but my wife is. She'd been to hospital for some routine tests and caught COVID there, I ended-up back in the same hospital with COVID.
My wife's mother and two of our relatives also caught it and they're all double vaxed.

I was sent to the hospital with a pre-existing condition and ended-up being admitted.

Hummers are more fun for sure...

 

Very good to hear you got through it!

That is the thing, the vast overwhelming majority, even unvaxxed, do get through Covid just fine. Many never even knew they had it (totally asymptomatic). Those that do have symptoms, generally speaking, it is not generally horrible.

That being said, simple due to the sheer numbers and ease of getting it, there are many who do not have a good outcome. Particularly when there are other conditions such as very overweight (by far the most common co-morbidity that the media nearly refuses to mention), and of course age, then the less common co-morbidites. I've lost a few people I've known already. One fully vaxxed, one not, and one suicided.

 

Exactly, many never have been tested, including myself.The spread is much higher than what is shown on the site I use, only shows 3% worldwide and 13% US. A strong immune system is the key! I haven't received any vaccination since the 80's when I was in the corps and never a problem since. Yet, my wife gets a flu vaccine every year and still gets the flu, now she's 2x C19 vaxxed.Total Cases 1M Population Worldwide 29,665 (3%)

 

Update , it did it again! Engine cranks but won't fire. Gauges, warning lights, info not working. Been told this will immobilise it. No codes shown up.
Any ideas ?

 

For something so catastrophic, as others suggest, it's either a loss of battery +12V or a communications failure, both of which affect the instrument cluster.

If fault occurs again try not to disturb any wiring e.g. battery cables, and with the fault still ongoing, meter the battery voltage at one of the 12V outlets and check there's OBD2 data available on the port.

If you have +12V at the outlet, check you have good 12V on the battery. If you have and there's communications, then the Instrument cluster should be working.

Something so intermittent suggests it's wiring, such a ground connection or a fuse possibly in the under the hood box.

Has there been any water ingress?

The BCM has 4 Hot battery connections and 4 fuses, these are TBC 2A, TBC 2B, TBC 2C (3 x 16A Left Dash Panel ) and TBC Batt (1 x 10A located Under the Hood) I'm sure you'll have the diagram.

It also has multiple grounds which go to the common ground G200 (Left side of dash near kick panel, again see diagram) a lose connection here would be catastrophic.

What would happen if the BCM lost power is hard to tell.

Anything connected to the Class 2 Serial Bus could potentially cause it.

It sounds like a loose/intermittent connection or something on the serial bus is starting to fail, not sure about the oil issue.

Let me know where you are in the UK....

 

All the fuses you mentioned are all OK. There is on in the side of dash that doesn't seem to have power going to it, that's veh stop15a. ( Also veh chmsl but don't think that would affect it. )
There is also an aftermarket alarm which the wiring looks a mess so may remove this along with about 5 relays that seems to be linked to it. It does fire & run briefly but very rough then stops. Battery showing about 12.5 v. Spins engine fast.

Mess of alarm wiring

Relays

 

Those fuses are in the Stop Lamp Switch / Trailer circuit, so probably not related the issue.

Maybe the after market alarm is "immobilising" when it shouldn't do, the wiring does look a bit dodgy.

Tough one, but like you I'd be tempted to remove it to or check all of it's connectors & relays and perhaps sketch it's wiring to help with diagnostics, depends how attached to the alarm you are..

Hope you get it sorted....

 

I once had a similar issue on my 97 Tahoe, a previous owner had a Viper alarm system installed that had failed. The wiring for it was a rats nest and it took me nearly a week to get it sorted out and removed. Most alarm manufactures won't help you with any info.
They will only point you to an authorized installer of their product (which keeps away the thieves but sucks when you have a problem). Needless to say I had to track down every wire and surgically remove it afterwards all was well.

I took great solace in smashing the **** out of it with a hammer once it was removed and the vehicle was restored to its factory configuration. My personal preference, if it ain't factory, loose it!

 

Never really used this alarm, was in when I bought it so definitely going to remove it. Think those relays are linked to it somehow too. Thanks

 

Definitely remove that abortion! Just match the oem wires, solid colors and colors with tracers(stripes). Properly secure/protect connections. I prefer solder & heat shrink tubing, or you can use waterproof heat shrink butt connectors. Post a pic of you results. GL