Heated seats turning on/off (which fuse to pull?)
#1
Heated seats turning on/off (which fuse to pull?)
Newbie here...My heated seats on the drivers side has been randomly flipping on. As I never use the heated seats, I thought I'd pull the fuse.
However the fuses I pulled didn't stop it from going on.
SEO B1 (15 Amp)
IGN 3 (10 Amp)
What's the right fuse to pull to disable the heated seats on a 2006 H2? (this is really burning my rear!)
However the fuses I pulled didn't stop it from going on.
SEO B1 (15 Amp)
IGN 3 (10 Amp)
What's the right fuse to pull to disable the heated seats on a 2006 H2? (this is really burning my rear!)
#2
For reference SEO B1 and IGN 3 are for the Left & Right Rear Heated Seat Modules which operate independently from the front.
Honestly, isolating the heaters may not be possible, there is a 30A Circuit Breaker on the I/P Relay Block inside near the LH Kick panel,
but beware, removing this will completely power-off the Memory Seat Module which may generate a DTC and affect driver and passenger seat controls. Also it may not be wise to unplug any module connectors as disturbing them could cause some of the "over-heated and burnt-out" connector issues mentioned elsewhere in the forum
The DDM is most likely the root cause, followed next by the heated seat switch assembly. The DDM can easily be removed using plastic panel levers (no need to dismantle the door) if you unplug the 12-Way Green Plug (connector C5) and the problem still exists then it's the DDM otherwise its the switch assembly and vice versa.
If the DDM the mostly likely cause is corrosion on the main PCB, if you're lucky it might clean-off with a small brush and IPA, the pic below shows the PCB area most likely concerned:-
It you look closely you can see some track repairs made to fix a similar problem, the IC HC589A handles the heated switch inputs specifically pins 2 and 4.
Repairing a DDM may be a "long-shot" but worth a try before buying a replacement /new one
If replacing, check the model year, especially if a used one, the seller may quote 2003-2007 but there are differences (express windows Up/Down was not a feature pre 2005) the seller may not be aware of this.
Honestly, isolating the heaters may not be possible, there is a 30A Circuit Breaker on the I/P Relay Block inside near the LH Kick panel,
but beware, removing this will completely power-off the Memory Seat Module which may generate a DTC and affect driver and passenger seat controls. Also it may not be wise to unplug any module connectors as disturbing them could cause some of the "over-heated and burnt-out" connector issues mentioned elsewhere in the forum
The DDM is most likely the root cause, followed next by the heated seat switch assembly. The DDM can easily be removed using plastic panel levers (no need to dismantle the door) if you unplug the 12-Way Green Plug (connector C5) and the problem still exists then it's the DDM otherwise its the switch assembly and vice versa.
If the DDM the mostly likely cause is corrosion on the main PCB, if you're lucky it might clean-off with a small brush and IPA, the pic below shows the PCB area most likely concerned:-
It you look closely you can see some track repairs made to fix a similar problem, the IC HC589A handles the heated switch inputs specifically pins 2 and 4.
Repairing a DDM may be a "long-shot" but worth a try before buying a replacement /new one
If replacing, check the model year, especially if a used one, the seller may quote 2003-2007 but there are differences (express windows Up/Down was not a feature pre 2005) the seller may not be aware of this.
#4
For reference SEO B1 and IGN 3 are for the Left & Right Rear Heated Seat Modules which operate independently from the front.
Honestly, isolating the heaters may not be possible, there is a 30A Circuit Breaker on the I/P Relay Block inside near the LH Kick panel,
but beware, removing this will completely power-off the Memory Seat Module which may generate a DTC and affect driver and passenger seat controls. Also it may not be wise to unplug any module connectors as disturbing them could cause some of the "over-heated and burnt-out" connector issues mentioned elsewhere in the forum
The DDM is most likely the root cause, followed next by the heated seat switch assembly. The DDM can easily be removed using plastic panel levers (no need to dismantle the door) if you unplug the 12-Way Green Plug (connector C5) and the problem still exists then it's the DDM otherwise its the switch assembly and vice versa.
If the DDM the mostly likely cause is corrosion on the main PCB, if you're lucky it might clean-off with a small brush and IPA, the pic below shows the PCB area most likely concerned:-
It you look closely you can see some track repairs made to fix a similar problem, the IC HC589A handles the heated switch inputs specifically pins 2 and 4.
Repairing a DDM may be a "long-shot" but worth a try before buying a replacement /new one
If replacing, check the model year, especially if a used one, the seller may quote 2003-2007 but there are differences (express windows Up/Down was not a feature pre 2005) the seller may not be aware of this.
Honestly, isolating the heaters may not be possible, there is a 30A Circuit Breaker on the I/P Relay Block inside near the LH Kick panel,
but beware, removing this will completely power-off the Memory Seat Module which may generate a DTC and affect driver and passenger seat controls. Also it may not be wise to unplug any module connectors as disturbing them could cause some of the "over-heated and burnt-out" connector issues mentioned elsewhere in the forum
The DDM is most likely the root cause, followed next by the heated seat switch assembly. The DDM can easily be removed using plastic panel levers (no need to dismantle the door) if you unplug the 12-Way Green Plug (connector C5) and the problem still exists then it's the DDM otherwise its the switch assembly and vice versa.
If the DDM the mostly likely cause is corrosion on the main PCB, if you're lucky it might clean-off with a small brush and IPA, the pic below shows the PCB area most likely concerned:-
It you look closely you can see some track repairs made to fix a similar problem, the IC HC589A handles the heated switch inputs specifically pins 2 and 4.
Repairing a DDM may be a "long-shot" but worth a try before buying a replacement /new one
If replacing, check the model year, especially if a used one, the seller may quote 2003-2007 but there are differences (express windows Up/Down was not a feature pre 2005) the seller may not be aware of this.
This was a big help on info. Thanks!
#6
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