finall mine is 2005, there's no mention of remote start in either the owners manuals or GM electronic service manual, so as you say it can't be OEM.

hkench is your remote start an aftermarket system, it would be good to know?

DanH3
I've looked again at the wiring regarding your "auto headlights" issue and it makes no logical sense. The Headlamp switch connects to 3 inputs on the BCM and a ground (just 4 wires) these inputs get grounded according to the switch position. Curiously when "Auto" is selected no inputs are grounded i.e. you could disconnect the switch completely and it would default to "Auto". Alternatively you could short out all the wires on the switch and again it should have no effect.

Unless the wiring has been modified or linked with other circuits, there should be no way that "Auto" would affect anything.

Fuse IGN E (under hood) takes its feed directly from the Ignition Switch and should only be at +12V when in START and/or RUN/ON. This line feeds many sections and fuses and is always a Pink wire:-

1. PCM C1-75 Ignition (this is what most likely keeps the vehicle running)
2. Automatic Transmission Pin E
3. Instrument Panel Cluster B9
4. A/C Compressor Clutch Relay (linked inside the underhood fuse box)
5. Traction Control switch Pin F
6. Turn Signal Switch Pin A (Left & Right Turn)
7. Park Neutral Switch (linked inside the underhood fuse box)
8. Ignition Relay

1. SIR - Inflatable Restraint
2. SEO IGN - Rear Defogger Relay
3. TBC IGN 1 = BCM C2 Pin A4
4. O2A = Oxygen Sensors Bank 1 Bank2
5. O2B = Oxygen Sensors Bank 1 Bank2
6. B/U LP = Park Neutral Switch

If any of the above got connected to another 12V source it could cause your problem, or it could be a faulty ignition switch.

I'd be tempted to do the following:-

• Confirm the Headlight Auto scenario
• Are the Headlights actually ON when the fault occurs? Is so pull out the Headlamp relays in case either is faulty
• Are yours Headlights stock and/or has their wiring been modified?
• Check the Ignition Switch for shorts.
• Pull the above 6 fuses one-by-one and see if the fault goes away i.e. no +12V on Fuse IGN E
• Check the underhood fuse box underneath for shorts.

Quite a tough one if everything is stock.

Sorry,,, evidently i dont know how this works, i am brand spanking new here,, still motoring along trying to figure it all out,

the fuse cover off under the hood is easy peezy, & the fuse puller is attached to fuse box, that w/s washer fuse is ornery and i will try dealing with it again, it thinks its there to stay, it wont budge,

now i dont know how to get the cover off the fuse box on the inside of the vehicle,to left of steering wheel, and i am going to order the connector with the wires, and see if that does the trick,, if not i spoke with old school mate who installs mobile stereos, speakers etc, he is gonna try to help if i hit more brick walls,, thank you oceanbrave, i sure appreciate the help

Sounds like you need some strong helping hands:)

For extracting fuses, place the tool around the fuse, squeeze the tool tight to grip, then pull hard - like pulling teeth 😬
For the cabin fuse panel, pull on in the bottom edge until it pops out, slide your fingers underneath up to the top then ease out the the panel.

ps Please check your private messages :)

Oceanbrave thank you a million, seriously, you showed up here to help, giving me great information and you have stuck with me, i am still chasing the problem,,,, but i'll get it figured out one way or the other,,,hopefully

Oceanbrave, its 11pm and i went out side with pliers and gently wiggled the washer motor 40 amp fuse out, then started hummer, then shut her off, radio didnt stay on, red battery light didnt come on, interior lights went off like it should, sooooooo thats good to know, and i dont have to unhook battery every time i park, and hook it back up when i need to go some where, so theres a start, tomorry i will check wipers and see if they stay on, thank you oceanbrave

Well done, you've made some good progress.

As you may recall, there were two fuses involved:-

• Cabin fuse panel WS WPR = 25A color = WHITE

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...0ee57a51ce.png

• Underhood fuse box W/S WASH = 15A color = BLUE

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...d0978ebe6d.png


Also you said 40A which is not the correct rating, was it actually the Blue 15A one above? (40A fuses are ORANGE !!)

Worryingly has someone fitted a 40A because the 15A kept blowing? BTW this is dangerous as your vehicle could catch fire! (see this recent post by Roesi)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...c4068d41b5.jpg


Pulling both fuses will 100% confirm the wiper motor is the issue, with only the 15A fuse removed the wipers may or may not come on, however pulling the cabin fuse as well will mean it can't come on and will be safer !

Since the 05 did not come from the factory with remote start first place I would look is the aftermarket addon remote start (probably a viper alarm system)

ok the one you have circled thats in the cabin, will be white?

and under the hood, i took out the large grey one NEXT to the little blue one your telling me to take out, do i need to put large grey one back in? it did stop washer motor from yelling and it stopped letting the red battery light come on, but what am I to do now,? besides take the white one in cabin?, i seriously appreciate all you r help, i really do,

so i read the link you sent, so the other guys problem was the washer motor? and that fixed the problems?

1st many apologies, I did reply to your pm but there was a mailbox issue an my reply wasn't sent, you should get it now, let me know either way.

To answers the above, yes it was the wiper motor and it most certainly fixed his problem.

Also once you've removed the 2 fuse and put the relay back in, your front wipers and both front and rear washers will no longer work, however some of the issues you mentioned previously should go away, refer back to that list and look at issues 4, 5 and 6

It looks very much like the wiper motor has gone faulty.

RA
[Awaiting Resolution]