MuseumMansDaughter regarding Issue 7

Quote "lots of wires wrapped in black tape that lead to the wiring harness that plugs into the interlock shifter solenoid, AND the little plastic peice that holds the wires, pink, yellow. green with black line and a green one didnt appear to be in right slots from what i could find online, and the solid green one was out, unhooked, and not sure where it goes"

Are you talking about the "Shift Lock Solenoid" i.e. this:-

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...7213a5f05a.png


If you are hear are the wiring details:-
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...5d60e37044.png
So according to the above there are 5 wires used:-I see from your comment you mentioned:- pink or "red or pinkish", yellow, "green with black", "a green one", "black n green wires"

So a couple of questions:-

1. Could your "GREEN WIRE WAS NOT HOOKED UP" actually be a Green with White Stripe? (can be hard to tell sometimes)
2. Did you mention a Black wire?

If this is the part, hopefully you now have all the data you need.

If it's not some pictures will help tremendously👍

"WS WPR" is just a single fuse.

This link uses numbers rather than names, in this case it is Fuse 15

Here is a GM diagram:-

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...cde91d54c5.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...bdc8ace0d5.jpg
THIS IS WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT,,, THIS ISNT MINE, BUT I FOUND ON A FORUM HERE, THIS GUYS WIRES ALL GOT OUT,,, CAN I BUY THIS WIRE HARNESS, ALREADY WIRED, WITH THE COLOR CODED WIRES?,

the answer is yes they are available ✔️

It's hard enough finding parts using the correct terminology let alone without, but anyway you are getting there.

You are in fact looking for a "Shift Interlock Solenoid Connector with Pigtails" such as this one from RockAuto, and widely available, the link will provide you with all the details and BTW RockAuto is very good.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...630edf640b.png
From your pictures the wires are as I posted previously, so your "green" wire should actually be a green+white stripe and there should also be a black
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...f7f620ca08.png
So all you have to do is match them up, re-connect and you should be good to go, yet another job done.

Should you require a new front wiper motor they are hard to find and expensive such as here

Re Issue #3 - HVAC air control problem (blend door actuator?)
From past posts (having never worked on this problem yet) it appears to be a common problem.
It seems the blend door actuator either needs recalibrating (easy) or replacing (not so easy)

Obviously try recalibration 1st, generally found these articles:-

On this forum1
On this forum2
Recal1

The members here have lots of experience and can surely advise you better than myself, also the recommendation is replace actuators with genuine GM parts.

Hopefully a re-calibration will fix things.

thank you oceanbrave, and sorry about the terminology, but i am a female and doing best i can do,and this is exactly what i tracked down, but the all grey wires,,,,under the grey, is the colors? So i know which ones to splice to?, and now i may be on a mission to buy a ''workshop manual'' for the 2004 h2,,, dang it i tried to get the window washer fuse out, couldnt wiggle it out to save my soul,and not sure how to get cover off of inside fuse box to pull the wipers fuse to see if thatll at least stop draining battery when engine is off, unhooking battery every time i park is getting old,

oh and yes the green wire was out, are those dudes soldered in their spot from facotry/, because once its out, theres nothing to hook it too, and if she needs a $300 plus wiper motor, im gonna be using a lot of rain-x.....

oh and yes the green wire was out, are those dudes soldered in their spot from facotry/, because once its out, theres nothing to hook it too, and if she needs a $300 plus wiper motor, im gonna be using a lot of rain-x.....

MuseumMansDaughter you don't need to use a "New Thread" each time you post, just keep to the same thread so all the "back-and-forth" discussions in one place making tracking and progress simple. Don't worry, everyone automatically gets notified each time you post but not if you switch threads - do you see how this works? There 's no rule about this but it will help you get what you want. Also when someone responds they may have spent many hours researching and crafting their reply, it would be a shame if you missed it

Issue 7 - Interlock shifter & wiring
You're gonna kick yourself when you realize just how easy this is going to be, no need to worry about "those dudes" - I'm English so I have to translate, "fanny packs" have a whole different meaning over here.

First if you've already got the connector, exactly like the one I prescribed from RockAuto i.e. 5 grey wires and 5 crimps, then you have all you need. Forget about grey wires (irrelevant) and you don't need to go to a breaker's yard to cut one out, unless you like the pretty colors that is.

The color-coded wires coming from the H2's harness serve only to identify which pin letter on the connector they go to.

So theses are exactly like the picture I posted earlier in this thread and If you noticed I marked the connector Pin Letter (ID) and wire Color in order for you to follow, however to summarize :-

Pin A is Black
Pin B is Light Green with Black Stripe
Pin C is Yellow
Pin D is not used i.e. no wire
Pin E is Dark Green with White Stripe
Pin F is Pink

All you need do is align the new connector as shown below with it's on the left and wires at the back, then match the correct harness wire color to the grey wire going to the correct Pin Letter - that's it!
So starting with the Black wire, connect this to the grey wire marked A then Green/Black wire to B etc and carry to until all wires are matched - job done!
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...a9d38817d7.png
Cut the grey wires to whatever length will cause the least amount of strain and will fit neatly around the shift lock solenoid, around 6 inches should be ok :)

What I don't know what type of "joint" connectors will have been supplied, they'll either be crimp or solder (preferably the latter but trickier) the important thing is the wire insulation is stripped-back to the right length and once connected the joint is strong i.e. it won't pull apart or come loose. Take care when stripping-back the insulation and try not to lose any wire strands as this weakens electrical connectivity.

As you can see, the fact that connector wires are colored grey makes no difference, what matters is what Pin they go to - simple!

Issues 4 & 6 Front Wiper Motor Fuses
Let's tackle the wiper motor issue once we know if it is a problem or not, so we need to check the fuses. Anyway in comparison a tank of gas in the US must be around $100 so the cost is not so bad.

Have to admit you made me smile on this one, all you need is either a pair of long-nosed pliers or a "Fuse Puller Tool" which will be the cheapest thing you'll ever buy for a Hummer!
Any motor accessory store should have them, or order one from Amazon, there may even be one inside the underhood fuse box, if only you could get the cover off :D
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...2e893661eb.png

If you are able to lift the hood, then removing the fuse cover should be no problem. Just put your hand over the top and feel for the "lip" in the area marked in red below, then pull, it should lift-up real easy, if you're struggling use both hands!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...79e5c66b59.png

Keep us posted !

Does the 2005 H2 have remote start? Never heard of that. If it does, someone molested it with an aftermarket mess. So there is your problem.