Fuel Cap Locking Cover
#1
Fuel Cap Locking Cover
So a PO either added or changed the locking door fuel cap cover with the key forward and hinged to the rear. Opposite to any I have ever seen. Wondering if I undo the 8 torx screws so I can rotate it 180, will it be an easy change, or will there be hidden nuts/clips or anything else that would require pulling the wheel well cover, involve 2 extra sets of hands or other surprise?
TIA
TIA
#2
So a PO either added or changed the locking door fuel cap cover with the key forward and hinged to the rear. Opposite to any I have ever seen. Wondering if I undo the 8 torx screws so I can rotate it 180, will it be an easy change, or will there be hidden nuts/clips or anything else that would require pulling the wheel well cover, involve 2 extra sets of hands or other surprise?
TIA
TIA
#3
It is mounted backwards. And it can tear off if left open during speed. Dumb.
Really easy to release it via the 3 screws attached inside to the filler neck. Then wiggle and rotate entire assembly till it releases. It should be mounted with a bayonet mount, like most others. The other half of the bayonet mount is molded into the truck body panel.
May require some force to release, in *maybe* in the opposite direction to what the install sheet says, cause it is upside down. Should not be screwed onto the body itself. If it is, someone bastardized it. Some use double-sided trim tape right on the bayonet mount, which is a bear to release. WD40 is your friend and If at all stiff, I would spray it between cap and body and let soak. Or mineral spirits work very well too and do not hurt paint.
Others use a rubber gasket to keep assembly from vibrating during speed. Your looks like it may just have that. That gasket will need to spin on the body, so lube it also.
Download an install sheet. Google is your friend.
I have re re’d lots of these, so speak from experience.
Really easy to release it via the 3 screws attached inside to the filler neck. Then wiggle and rotate entire assembly till it releases. It should be mounted with a bayonet mount, like most others. The other half of the bayonet mount is molded into the truck body panel.
May require some force to release, in *maybe* in the opposite direction to what the install sheet says, cause it is upside down. Should not be screwed onto the body itself. If it is, someone bastardized it. Some use double-sided trim tape right on the bayonet mount, which is a bear to release. WD40 is your friend and If at all stiff, I would spray it between cap and body and let soak. Or mineral spirits work very well too and do not hurt paint.
Others use a rubber gasket to keep assembly from vibrating during speed. Your looks like it may just have that. That gasket will need to spin on the body, so lube it also.
Download an install sheet. Google is your friend.
I have re re’d lots of these, so speak from experience.
Last edited by finall; 02-22-2023 at 05:43 PM.
#4
It is mounted backwards. And it can tear off if left open during speed. Dumb.
Really easy to release it via the 3 screws attached inside to the filler neck. Then wiggle and rotate entire assembly till it releases. It should be mounted with a bayonet mount, like most others. The other half of the bayonet mount is molded into the truck body panel.
May require some force to release, in *maybe* in the opposite direction to what the install sheet says, cause it is upside down. Should not be screwed onto the body itself. If it is, someone bastardized it. Some use double-sided trim tape right on the bayonet mount, which is a bear to release. WD40 is your friend and If at all stiff, I would spray it between cap and body and let soak. Or mineral spirits work very well too and do not hurt paint.
Download an install sheet. Google is your friend.
I have re re’d lots of these, so speak from experience.
Really easy to release it via the 3 screws attached inside to the filler neck. Then wiggle and rotate entire assembly till it releases. It should be mounted with a bayonet mount, like most others. The other half of the bayonet mount is molded into the truck body panel.
May require some force to release, in *maybe* in the opposite direction to what the install sheet says, cause it is upside down. Should not be screwed onto the body itself. If it is, someone bastardized it. Some use double-sided trim tape right on the bayonet mount, which is a bear to release. WD40 is your friend and If at all stiff, I would spray it between cap and body and let soak. Or mineral spirits work very well too and do not hurt paint.
Download an install sheet. Google is your friend.
I have re re’d lots of these, so speak from experience.
So the 8 hex looking screws are dummies? Three that hold it all in are inside the rim? I'll start looking for the install instructions. Thanks.
#5
I was thinking the same thing about the wind ripping it off. Had to use a fuel pump on the passenger side and with the door open to the rear I had to hold the nozzle and keep tension off the hose or it would have ripped the door off.
So the 8 hex looking screws are dummies? Three that hold it all in are inside the rim? I'll start looking for the install instructions. Thanks.
So the 8 hex looking screws are dummies? Three that hold it all in are inside the rim? I'll start looking for the install instructions. Thanks.
#6
Got it. Thanks.
#7
As told, removed the 3 screws and did a CCW twist and voila, it came right out. Several small screws hold the plastic to the outer door frame on the backside. Ones showing from the front doesn't seem to have a purpise. Wire brushed the metal and gave it a new coat of flat black. Put it back on with lock at correct orientation. Thanks for pointers.
Last edited by PGI Conch; 03-07-2023 at 03:22 PM.
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