Exhaust Manifold - rusty!
#1
Exhaust Manifold - rusty!
I have asked this question before, but appreciate any new input. It sounds like I should leave them until there is a leak to fix, and at that point remove the heads as well. Anyone here had theirs replaced? Should they be replaced with headers? I'd happily take any new ideas.
Last edited by ben1272; 08-29-2020 at 02:11 PM.
#2
They are cast iron, they are going to rust. I'd not mess with them unless you are putting long tube headers on or something. Also no need to remove the heads if a bolt breaks. The broken ones can generally be extracted in place. Worst case you can just use special clamping bracket to hold it tight is it is one of the very front of very back bolts that are broken. Those brackets word great and are a heck of a lot cheaper than pulling the top end of the engine off.
#4
Look to the back of the manifolds (right next to firewall) -as well as the rest of the manifold bolts, see if any heads of the bolts are missing.... If not be glad and dont worry about rust.
Its the back bolts that are most prone to snapping, you would hear a slight tick on start up that most likely goes away when vehicle up to temp.
I have done both manifold replacements - Luckily on mine once I removed the bolts that were in tact on each manifold and removed them- I was able to spray some penetrant on them and remove them with vice grips... there was just enough bolt left (head snapped right at top) to back them out.
If you ever have to do, just remove the inside fender liner and have patience....you dont need a lift to do - just patience....
another technique I read about, but did not try - was once the manifolds are off welding a head back on the stud and then backing out...
And for what its worth - I have owned three H2's ....... and have done this on every one. Its that common for the bolts to break.
Chris
Its the back bolts that are most prone to snapping, you would hear a slight tick on start up that most likely goes away when vehicle up to temp.
I have done both manifold replacements - Luckily on mine once I removed the bolts that were in tact on each manifold and removed them- I was able to spray some penetrant on them and remove them with vice grips... there was just enough bolt left (head snapped right at top) to back them out.
If you ever have to do, just remove the inside fender liner and have patience....you dont need a lift to do - just patience....
another technique I read about, but did not try - was once the manifolds are off welding a head back on the stud and then backing out...
And for what its worth - I have owned three H2's ....... and have done this on every one. Its that common for the bolts to break.
Chris
#6
man i just looked at my passenger side and i can see it started to crack LOL... looks like rock auto does not carry the ACDelco ones any more for my year. to shorty header or not to shorty header that is the question.....
#8
Shorty headers work fine as a replacement but realistically offer almost no performance improvements over stock manifolds. They do look nicer though and will be noisier - you will hear a lot more valve train type engine noise with headers. I did full stainless long tubes with high flow cats plus stainless cat back. Nice improvement but a good bit of work and not super cheap.
#9
looks like there is a difference between federal and california emissions. cali uses a doughnut gasket and fed uses an o-ring gasket it also seems you have a change from 2003 to 2004-2009 why the heck would 2003 be any different? it does not use an egr?
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