Re Pin15, so it does, so that's ok.

Re Pin9 .. possibly should and maybe worth another look.

 

@oceanbrave
Today i bought some stuff for the soldering and also the soldering wire for the gold one: Velleman Wickeldraht WIK01N, Ø0.1mm, 715m, 50g 1 Stück (brack.ch)
Do you think it will work with them?

Also this insulating gel: Wonder Gel - Single component insulating gels for electrical connections (raytech.it)

 

"Solderable enamelled copper" wire can be a difficult to work with, the iron temperature needs hot enough to burn-off the coating but not too hot for soldering.

You may find it easier to pull a strand out of some multi-strand wire, which is already "tinned" and over such a short distance (8mm'ish ) insulation shouldn't be an issue.

My approach would be to carefully cut a channel and peel-off the gel just enough to access the start and end pads.
Snip-off the existing wire strands.
Pre-tin the start and end pads with solder, we're assuming the pads are solderable, remember they were welded originally. You will know quickly enough if they'll solder, my guess is they will.
Tin one end of the wire strand then melt it onto the start-pad using the iron
Cut the wire to length, tin the end and again melt it onto the end-pad, the amount of solder should be just enough to "tack" the wire in place.
Finish-off with a little extra solder if necessary, just enough to secure the wire and make a nice joint.
Adding solder is easy, removing it is more difficult.
Also with short wire lengths, heat can travel from one end to the other causing it to melt-off.

The soldering the repair service did was excessive and messy in my opinion, look at the pad "Red-23" (factory made) this is a good example to follow, if your work looks like this it should be OK, even though your strands may be thinner.

For sealing the above, adhesive is normally used, I've no experience with Wonder Gel, it's probably similar stuff
For sealing the module casing, black Automotive Sealant should be ok, the clear stuff should also work, but it's not black like the original, depends how fussy you want to be..

1st that solder blob needs to be removed so we can find out where Red-14 connects to.in the connector

You may need a de-soldering pump / solder-sucker and a fine tipped iron, preferably temperature controlled (loads on Amazon) the key is not to get the iron too hot as this crystalizes the solder (320°c) and it looses it strength, people often confuse temperature with heat capacity, not the same thing.

Also don't keep the iron on the pads too-long or press too-hard otherwise the pads may detach from the fiberglass PCB, it's easy to overdo it, be quick and gentle.

 

@George W

this is an impression of what the soldering work might look like (ideally) however I can't tell if pads Red-3 and Red-13 are connected, so it's worth checking double checking all of them (1 through 33)
Still not 100% sure where the pads go to on the connector (be good to know)

 

@oceanbrave
I already have experience in soldering but not in such fine work, I will try my best to do it right.

Red-3 is ground, so possible that this is a problem of melting wire? I really don't know
Red-13 not sure if it was connected or not on the lower golden pad it looks like it was connected and it must be connected because it goes to the right front wheel sensor
Red-33 looks also, that something was connected but actually not used pin on the wire harness
Red-7 / 8 is so closed together, perhaps it makes a short circuit ans strange one is, it haves a wire but no connection to a pin

The best one will be to have a good ABS Module, to look inside or an electrical shema ti see which golden cable goes to which golden pad.

Also I think it make sense to measure Ohm with the multimeter.


Thank you very much for your support, I really appreciate it!

 

Today I cleaned the red pins 14 and 15, who was definitly not good soldered and I checked the signal of 14.
Red 14 goes to pin5(low reference)

still strange for me is Red 3 it have a connection to Pin12 (ground).

 

After some hours of soldering… I ordered a used ABS in ebay. Soldering with the microscope is for sure possible but I used soldering grease and it dissolved the conductor tracks on the circuit board so the module is dead 😔.

until the new abs module will come around 1 week. I put the defective module on the pump and driving is possible.
traction control lamp doesn‘t light. Only ABS and brake without the message service brake system.

additional one will be, if I got the new module and I will connect them. Will it break again?

thanks for the answer.

 

module replacement was always a high probability, but kudos to you for giving it a real good try, pioneering you could say ✔️

also you've spent many hours working on it, furthermore it's location and accessibility made it tough, so again well done!
(spent several hours myself)

"Will it break again?"

Impossible to answer and given no direct cause has been found other than natural failure.

However at least make this test, with the module unplugged, 100% prove that both pins 12 and 15 (GND Black) connect to chassis with very low resistance individually, they should of course connect to each other via the chassis. A momentary loss of ground might cause an overcurrent via other pins, such as the low references and may be the reason why these burnt-out.

On that same point check, the state of the female connector pins 12 & 15, whilst measuring their resistances to ground flex the cable at the connector in case there's and intermittent break or loose wire, consider any increase in resistance as suspicious. This process is easy to say, but tough to do, but worth trying.

Custom monolithic type PCB's tend to be very flimsy, as mentioned already, the original wires were welded which is the clue, solder paste (grease) is generally used for surface mount and hard to control with an iron, job might have been impossible anyway.

Hope the new module works and please do not bin the old one just yet !

 

Hi together

Today I exchanged the ABS Module. still DTC Failure on ABS but now only for the right rear wheel speed sensor, for all other Sensors I got data and speed information.
The sad one is, the right rear wheel speed sensor is that one, what I changed...


Next one will be to swap the rear sensors and see what happens.
I hope I can take the left sensor out, without any problems.

Does anybody else have an other idea what to do?

 

Well done for changing the ABS Module

Is the DTC code is C0050 as before?

Assuming it is, the conditions for setting the code are as follows:-For a reference take a look at this previous thread