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@Georg W well done on getting to this point, it's a lot of hard work, though I've removed a pump I've not gone further so you'd be a pioneer.
However before you do, take a look at this eBay repair service, can't say if they're any good, but they may be worth contacting to see if they can help.
Personally, as an electronics engineer, I'm not a big fan of blitzing solder joints in the hope of fixing a problem, unless it's the last option, faults tend to come back which in this case would be very tough.
Personally I use a magnifier and multimeter to inspect and measure and to try an prove-out the fault, however I appreciate this can be difficult
Pictures of the module and connector pins may be useful to see their condition.
Last edited by oceanbrave; 06-10-2024 at 11:14 AM.
@George W
been studying the side-view, it looks as there's a "press-fit" pin along side maybe a locking tab (hard to tell)
the outer edges will almost certainly be sealed for ingress protection, but if you do use a 3rd party repair service beware, they may not be happy if it's been opened-up already.
@Georg W well done on getting to this point, it's a lot of hard work, though I've removed a pump I've not gone further so you'd be a pioneer.
However before you do, take a look at this eBay repair service, can't say if they're any good, but they may be worth contacting to see if they can help.
Personally, as an electronics engineer, I'm not a big fan of blitzing solder joints in the hope of fixing a problem, unless it's the last option, faults tend to come back which in this case would be very tough.
Personally I use a magnifier and multimeter to inspect and measure and to try an prove-out the fault, however I appreciate this can be difficult
Pictures of the module and connector pins may be useful to see their condition.
the expansion took 45mins, really easy. You only must know where the screws are😂
if I solder I will do it same like you with a magnifier and multimeter but I think best one will be to send it to US for repair… that means around 350$ for repair and 1month without module.
I‘m afraid of breaking some plastic party when opening…
you have at least one pin showing corrosion "green crusties" some of the others also look like they might have some white oxidation on it. you can try clean them with a good electronics cleaner but you also need to look at the harness plug to see if it also looks compromised especially the one that interfaces with the "green crusty" one. it might also help you to diagnose by finding out what that pin is for on a wiring diagram.
you have at least one pin showing corrosion "green crusties" some of the others also look like they might have some white oxidation on it. you can try clean them with a goode electronics cleaner but you also need to look at the harness plug to see if it also looks compromised especially the one that interfaces with the "green crusty" one. it might also help you to diagnose by finding out what that pin is for on a wiring diagram.
Thank you for the answer. I already cleaned them with a good electronics cleaner but nothing helped.
I‘m checking now if I have a repair service for my EBCM module here in Switzerland or Germany. In Us it haves some but it needs to long and I pay only for shipping 80$
you have at least one pin showing corrosion "green crusties" some of the others also look like they might have some white oxidation on it. you can try clean them with a good electronics cleaner but you also need to look at the harness plug to see if it also looks compromised especially the one that interfaces with the "green crusty" one. it might also help you to diagnose by finding out what that pin is for on a wiring diagram.
agree with @bronxteck and with similar thoughts, also the module is only one half of the story, there is also the harness connector.
wound all the way out could be used to very gently remove any signs of corrosion/oxidization then finally wash out with electrical cleaner.
Care will be needed as the pins are plated, however corrosion removal takes priority, it's a balancing-act so use the pencil sparingly and avoid the temptation of heavier abrasives.
If the harness connector is also corroded this may pose a difficult problem, washing out with contact cleaner is perhaps the best that can be done apart from replacing the connector and/or pins.
Brake fluid can be corrosive and conductive especially when old and degraded, so if fluid was allowed get inside either connector this could be the problem.
Normally, connectors are only ingress protected when mated, so fluid could have got inside the module if the previous mechanics were careless - hopefully this is not the case!
A service company may advise you if they find corrosion inside.
Please let me know if you need any wiring information etc.
This is the inside of a broken module I have from a 07. I was having left rear wheel speed issues after a brake line replacement. Went through all the wiring, changed the speed sensor, etc. Anyways, I sent it off to be repaired by one of the companies I found on youtube, but they said all the joints were fine. It just looked cut apart and then an epoxy or silicone or something was used to reseal it. I opened it up just to look to see what was inside.
Hopefully your issue lies elsewhere, or one of the repair companies can fix it. Everyone seems to be able to get theirs fixed by these repair companies, but they said: "If you have definitely ruled out the sensor, the ring, the wiring, and the harness (frayed wires are common), then the only other possibility is a bad processor inside the module. The problem was NOT a broken jumper inside the module, which is common and fixable. All your jumpers were good. Processor failures are not repairable though and can only be diagnosed through a process of elimination."
I had to just buy a new (used) abs module and that solved my problems. Took me an 8 hour drive round trip to find a scrap yard with one. But, it was plug and play and didn't need to be reprogrammed.
This is the inside of a broken module I have from a 07. I was having left rear wheel speed issues after a brake line replacement. Went through all the wiring, changed the speed sensor, etc. Anyways, I sent it off to be repaired by one of the companies I found on youtube, but they said all the joints were fine. It just looked cut apart and then an epoxy or silicone or something was used to reseal it. I opened it up just to look to see what was inside.
Hopefully your issue lies elsewhere, or one of the repair companies can fix it. Everyone seems to be able to get theirs fixed by these repair companies, but they said: "If you have definitely ruled out the sensor, the ring, the wiring, and the harness (frayed wires are common), then the only other possibility is a bad processor inside the module. The problem was NOT a broken jumper inside the module, which is common and fixable. All your jumpers were good. Processor failures are not repairable though and can only be diagnosed through a process of elimination."
I had to just buy a new (used) abs module and that solved my problems. Took me an 8 hour drive round trip to find a scrap yard with one. But, it was plug and play and didn't need to be reprogrammed.
thanks a lot for your answer!
i will go tomorrow to the repair center for ABS modules and will slso tell him about the processor… we will see what happens.
today I checked the cables, they are looking good
7 of those pins in your harness look to be a bit suspect. the ones that are not as bright as the others. dark grey means corrosion. they sell pin cleaning metal bristle brushes that are tiny.
06-10-2024, 11:07 AM
