Electric problems
#11
Yes Switzerland
the above picture from the elements I already saw. I didn't saw any corrosion.
I hope the "Service Brake System" Problem is not to bad...
the above picture from the elements I already saw. I didn't saw any corrosion.
I hope the "Service Brake System" Problem is not to bad...
#13
Today I checkes again with Tech2 the failures and got this:
the first failure is clear but what is the second one?
and are the speed sensor for the front the same for the rear one?
and where in Tech2 I see the traction control failure codes?
the first failure is clear but what is the second one?
and are the speed sensor for the front the same for the rear one?
and where in Tech2 I see the traction control failure codes?
Last edited by George W; 05-14-2024 at 01:52 PM.
#14
Hi George,
Looking through Rockauto.com the front sensors are cabled, the rear have just connectors, so yes they're different, rear are also expensive!
It might be worth checking the wiring harness as DTC indicates an open or short circuit condition, possibly swap left with right?
However DTC C0191 relates to the Longitudinal Accelerometer device mounted behind the center of the dash, interestingly it also connected to the ECBM (Electronically Controlled Brake Module) so the two faults have the ECBM in common.
It might be worth inspecting the ECBM connector, hopefully it is not a faulty ECBM.
Your pictures also show "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" and also interestingly the Class2 Serial bus also connects here.
Have you had any work done to the brake system recently?
Looking through Rockauto.com the front sensors are cabled, the rear have just connectors, so yes they're different, rear are also expensive!
It might be worth checking the wiring harness as DTC indicates an open or short circuit condition, possibly swap left with right?
However DTC C0191 relates to the Longitudinal Accelerometer device mounted behind the center of the dash, interestingly it also connected to the ECBM (Electronically Controlled Brake Module) so the two faults have the ECBM in common.
It might be worth inspecting the ECBM connector, hopefully it is not a faulty ECBM.
Your pictures also show "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" and also interestingly the Class2 Serial bus also connects here.
Have you had any work done to the brake system recently?
#15
Hi George,
Looking through Rockauto.com the front sensors are cabled, the rear have just connectors, so yes they're different, rear are also expensive!
It might be worth checking the wiring harness as DTC indicates an open or short circuit condition, possibly swap left with right?
However DTC C0191 relates to the Longitudinal Accelerometer device mounted behind the center of the dash, interestingly it also connected to the ECBM (Electronically Controlled Brake Module) so the two faults have the ECBM in common.
It might be worth inspecting the ECBM connector, hopefully it is not a faulty ECBM.
Your pictures also show "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" and also interestingly the Class2 Serial bus also connects here.
Have you had any work done to the brake system recently?
Looking through Rockauto.com the front sensors are cabled, the rear have just connectors, so yes they're different, rear are also expensive!
It might be worth checking the wiring harness as DTC indicates an open or short circuit condition, possibly swap left with right?
However DTC C0191 relates to the Longitudinal Accelerometer device mounted behind the center of the dash, interestingly it also connected to the ECBM (Electronically Controlled Brake Module) so the two faults have the ECBM in common.
It might be worth inspecting the ECBM connector, hopefully it is not a faulty ECBM.
Your pictures also show "SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM" and also interestingly the Class2 Serial bus also connects here.
Have you had any work done to the brake system recently?
Also I will check connectors to the ECBM.
Thanks a lot.
#16
The main AS Unit 16-Way connector is the right half of item-1 (C451) in yellow shown below:-
C451 connects the Serial Data bus, the above diagram is hard to visualize, however its a "Top View", in red is the rear tow-hitch, this is a single compressor unit yours will a dual (sorry didn't have a dual diagram)
The 2nd connector C450 and is the main power connector, again both connectors should be sealed (somehow)
The side mirrors are control by the Driver's Door Module, these tend to suffer from water ingress (rain), both DDM & PDM are easy to remove/disconnect without undoing the door panel.
The Class2 Serial Data bus is literally 2 wires that link all modules in parallel all over the vehicle, a the fault could be any module or connector, this is why splice pack SP205 is so useful.
Take care with the Airbag Restraint Module it is physical-position sensitive
Look for any signs of cabin leaks, especially around the left A-Pillar, the aftermarket radio would seem a good candidate but pulling it's fuse may not be enough, hence SP205
The Instrument cluster could be original I mention it because it too could be a fault candidate.
Also check your battery is charged and healthy.
I think I found C450/C451 and sealed it
And I want to change my roof Weatherstrip for both side, any alternative part to this? Hummer GM OEM 03-09 H2 Roof-Weatherstrip Seal Left 25868657 | eBay
Its very expensive
Last edited by George W; 05-16-2024 at 02:17 PM.
#17
Yes that's the connector, it's worth washing out with switch cleaner/IPA to remove any existing corrosion as much as possible.
Ingress Protection (IP) is hard to achieve for connectors no longer mated, electrical tape might do it, or a polythene bag fitted over the connectors and then electrical-taped to the harness.
What you've done already looks neat and better than being left open to the elements, however the test is "would it stand being submersed if you drove through water?"
Ingress Protection (IP) is hard to achieve for connectors no longer mated, electrical tape might do it, or a polythene bag fitted over the connectors and then electrical-taped to the harness.
What you've done already looks neat and better than being left open to the elements, however the test is "would it stand being submersed if you drove through water?"
#18
Yes that's the connector, it's worth washing out with switch cleaner/IPA to remove any existing corrosion as much as possible.
Ingress Protection (IP) is hard to achieve for connectors no longer mated, electrical tape might do it, or a polythene bag fitted over the connectors and then electrical-taped to the harness.
What you've done already looks neat and better than being left open to the elements, however the test is "would it stand being submersed if you drove through water?"
Ingress Protection (IP) is hard to achieve for connectors no longer mated, electrical tape might do it, or a polythene bag fitted over the connectors and then electrical-taped to the harness.
What you've done already looks neat and better than being left open to the elements, however the test is "would it stand being submersed if you drove through water?"
alternative to the roof weatherstrip?
#20