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Aftermarket lights to replace the round DRL lights
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I have it set to NO, but the factory foglight button stays on (as indicated by the LED light) and presses it does nothing. It won't turn off with the factory button. I have to push the module button. And yes, I have the orange connected to R/S button on the module.
Only thing I can think of is to be sure of the wire voltages at your wiper/fog light button connector. Possible that some wire colors have changed or are for some reason different, or that something else is possibly wrong. I assume you have a multimeter and can test the wires on the plug. On mine the third wire (yellow) is 12 positive when the key is on and the sixth wire (black with white trace) is 12v negative (ground). The seventh wire (I added this one and used an orange wire) should be negative/grounded when the fog button is pushed. The eighth and ninth wires are for the led indicator next to the button to let you know the lights are on - I used a green wire which is the ground for the LED and the light purple wire I used is just tied back to the 12v positive yellow wire.
I also just looked in the GM service docs and the underhood fuse box wiring shows the relay trigger in a different place so I'm now not certain that maybe I did some other modification a couple of years ago when I added those two wires.
That being said - if yours are working when you press the button on the module then it has to just be something to do with the factory button signal. That button on the module is just a 2 pin momentary button and is directly connected on the circuit board to the GND terminals on the module. Pressing it just providing a momentary ground directly to the R/S terminal on the module - just what your fog light button should be providing when it is pressed. So my thinking is for some reason your fog light button is not providing a ground to the seventh (orange wire) when pressed or you have a bad connection. You should be able to use a meter or even a basic test light, connect one side to known 12 positive, the other to the orange wire and when you press the button the test light should turn on or meter show 12v.
maybe the used switch is bad. maybe need to clean it? according to what mixman described you should be able to tap the orange wire at the factory switch harness to ground and it should work as intended. if it does then you have either a pin location issue or the switch is not behaving as it should
Ok, I think you are correct. For whatever reason, either that 7th wire is not being grounded by the switch or there is a slight difference in the wiring pattern on the 06 from the 03. I notice although me and mixman have the same color code in our pig tail, but my first slot is open. The plug could actually take 10 wires and the wires start at the second slot on the plug. Not sure if that matters at all.
When I tap the module with a grounded tester either at module (R/S) or on the 7th wire to the switch, the module clicks on a off in synchrony with the LED going on in off at the switch just like the diagram calls for. I have tested that 7th wire several times. Nothing. So I disconnected the switch and used the multimeter on the 7th wire. Nothing. I can complete a circuit and get a multimeter reading on the other wires. I'm less likely to believe its the switch because the switch is practically new. I remember adding the three wires sometime back and taping them off when I couldn't get the factory switch to work without going through the BCM. I opened the foglight/wiper switch and didn't see anything out of order there. I depinned and repinned that seventh wire that connects to R/S. Nothing. So that leaves me with either the switch or a slight variation on the harness. Maybe there is some other wire that grounds out the foglight button upon press. Not sure. I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for that harness yet. Also, does the gauge of the wire added to the pigtail matter as far as getting a good ground for the switch? Didn't know if that mattered. I saw mix man used a little thicker gauge than the wires I added. Oh and just read bronxteck's statement on the pin location, which can also be a possibility which goes to the slight wiring harness variation I mentioned earlier. Let me know what you all think.
@WhDaFk One other catch for those Morimoto ones... as you mentioned how to mount them but also no DRL function so if you are in a state or country that requires DRL then you would also need to add some sort of an alternative DRL somewhere else. Aside from that I'm certain that they are top notch as Morimoto is generally excellent.
That first pin hole (actually that is considered the last -K) is skipped on the plug on mine too (there is no pin for it on one of the buttons). The plug wiring is the same for 2003-2007 models. Attached is for 2006. We added wires to pins A-C. The black with white wire (D) is the ground wire. Also attached are photos of the circuit board inside the switch/button (I have a spare). As you can see from the back side of the board, pin D (black with white trace - ground) goes directly to the outer contacts for the fog light button (also branches off for some of the wiper functions) and the other contact is directly out to pin C (orange wire I used). If the factory wiring ground is functional and the button is functional, pressing it will ground the orange wire. If the orange wire does not get grounded when you push the button, either the button contacts are bad or dirty (underneath the two bits of copper on the front side) or that factory black/white ground wire is not grounded. If dirty contacts you can carefully stick a thin fingernail file or something in between to gently clean them. Could also be bad solder joints on the board too but unlikely as the button contacts have multiple soldered joints - that being said, the corner bulb on the one shown has cold solder joints. You can literally wiggle the bulb and watch the terminals on the back side move freely.... Not an uncommon thing to run across on older circuit boards but less likely to cause an issue when something is attached to the same circuit trace in multiple points.
Man, your vivid make-it-plain explanation ability is second to none. I depinned D & mistakenly broke it. I think I may not have been getting a good ground because I didn't put the blue slide back in the plug which tightens the pins and connectors. Headed to the junk yard to buy another pigtail. I'll get it solved shortly....then I'll need to move on to replacing the entire fog light assembly because even with the LEDs, that housing and 3157 bulb, that platform doesn't throw much light and was not meant to be used as a true fog light. At least I will have the wiring already in place for the new foglight mod.
Yes you do need the PCA bits on connectors (blue bit on that one). PCA - positive connector assurance.
Had me worried that I had missed something or did something with my wiring a long while back that I forgot about or something. Was pretty sure I had it all right though but the older I get the more I seem to forget...
Yes - does not really matter what bulbs you try to put in the stock fog housings. Even if you were to cut the back up and stick some sort of headlight or fog/driving light LED into it, it would just be a gigantic round blob of bright floodlight that blinds everyone and provides you little to no useful light for driving. Only good option is to retrofit some sort of aftermarket LED fog or driving light complete with lens, housing, etc and then figure out some way to install them. Also tricky is if you want to actually use them while driving among other traffic is aiming whatever you end up using.
Also - not terribly obvious but the blue bulb on the corner... on the back side (upper left corner) is a good example of a cold solder joint on an older circuit board. If I wiggle that bulb you can see the pins physically moving.....
Finally got it to work!, but with a new switch. Well I should say an old switch I got from the junkyard today. I realized that AC Delco switch I got from Amazon doesn't properly ground that D pinned wire. You're better off just finding an old switch from the salvage yard like I did today. I saw other comments in the review section on Amazon of some people saying they too were having problems with the foglight button. So yes, you guys were spot on about the faulty switch.. Now onto finding some better foglight housings..maybe projectors. Also, thinking about putting day time running lights in front hood bumps on the left and right outside the windshield wipers. Also, thinking about taking on a herculean task of attempting to add these the new Mopar OEM Jeep headlights, which will require some serious mods. Will require boring out the grill a couple of inches and a lot more. Here are the mopar lights:
08-05-2020, 11:28 AM
