Since you are working very close to the battery and working on the underhood fusebox I'd recommend at least disconnecting the negative battery cable and moving it away from the battery. I did not but I'm quite used to working on auto electrical. Time - not really sure. I did not time myself. I did solder wire connections but I already had the lights installed quite a long while back and had already added the pins to the underhood fuse box and the plug in the dash quite some time back. So the other day I really only pulled one wire to the underhood fuse box and wired in the module from Amazon. Since I had already done certain parts a while back plus the fact that everyone works at different paces while thinking, planning, etc I cannot really give you an amount of time it might take.

 

thanks..so I started this project today and realized that when I attempted the factory fog light set up some time back, I actually left all the wiring intact and I already had the single wire coming to that chevy tahoe pigtail, which was still connected to the fog-wiper switch. I also realized that when I attempted this before, I remove the two terminals from the back of the fuse box and attempted to use a separate stand alone relay. I can't find those old terminals I got from the junkyard, so I attempted to follow your instructions with the standalone relay instead, but couldn't get it to work. I got the fog light LED light to come on at the switch inside the truck, but the fog lights would not come on. I got power at the relay and at the latching relay (the amazon module light comes on), but the switch and latching relay aren't triggering the stand alone relay under the hood . Any suggestions on how to make this work with a stand alone relay or will I have to go with the terminal connections & the relay in the fuse box?

 

If you are using a standalone relay you need to make sure that the coil on the standalone relay has 12v+ from an accessory source (only hot when the key is on) since I set this up as a negative relay coil trigger. Most people set relays up with positive trigger and leave one side of the relay coil always grounded - I did not set it up this way because the factory relay requires a negative trigger (on the factory relay the coil gets positive accessory power from the fusebox). Your button LED is turning on because the output (which is split and goes to both that led and the relay) is negative.

 

Ok, so I made it to the junk yard yesterday to get the fuseblock pigtails with the OEM connectors. I hooked everything up exactly like you said, but still can't get it to work. Now I get no LED light on at the fog light switch, but the latching relay still comes on. About to go back out and work on it shortly.

 

Ok, so I got the foglights to come on but only with pressing the button on the amazon module and NOT by pressing the factory foglight button. When I press the red button on the module, the factory foglight LED lights up and the foglights come on, but nothing happens when I press the factory foglight button. After pressing the red module button, the "NO/SET" light then comes on, which is on the right side of the module. Before, the "NC/RST" light on the left side of the module came on and the factory button's LED was off. If I leave this way, I will have to keep the module out and operate the foglights through the module button, which defeats the purpose of being able to operate it through the factory button. What am I missing?

 

did you wire it as he has it in his pdf? FogSwitchWiring.pdf

 

Yes I did. That is what this entire thread is about and everything that I have been responding to.

 

the orange wire from the factory switch is what should pulse the R/S switch button on the module. see if it is outputting a negative pulse at the switch.

 

thanks...what should the module button be set to "NC/RST" or "NO/SET"?

 

NC is Normaly Closed contact
NO is Normaly Open contact
in the pdf it looks like he is using
C = common contact ground 12v
and NO to trigger the relay.