ABS Module
#2
Wow! Good thing the whole rig did not burn. This is nasty. You may have electrical problems that go further than a new ABS module and wiring. Something is very wrong there.
Anyone else ever see something like this?
Is the connector and ABS module no longer available from Dealer?
You can start at a wrecker for the harness and ABS module, if dealer can not supply. Or eBay.
Solder your pigtail splices if you can not fish out the wires/wire spades out of the old connector.
Before you do any of this however, you should find out why your H2 wants to burn. Maybe a good electrical shop to diagnose what is going on? Unless you can do that yourself?
This is not something to mess with. This is a costly, time-consuming repair. It has to be done right, so this does not happen again.
Anyone else ever see something like this?
Is the connector and ABS module no longer available from Dealer?
You can start at a wrecker for the harness and ABS module, if dealer can not supply. Or eBay.
Solder your pigtail splices if you can not fish out the wires/wire spades out of the old connector.
Before you do any of this however, you should find out why your H2 wants to burn. Maybe a good electrical shop to diagnose what is going on? Unless you can do that yourself?
This is not something to mess with. This is a costly, time-consuming repair. It has to be done right, so this does not happen again.
#3
The attached PDF shows the EBCM Connector End view wiring, pretty sure this is "looking into" the cable connector.
Google "Delphi 15326390" you'll find sellers, most show zero stock,t Mouser says "available on back order" but there may be more suppliers, it was just a quick look
However Nexus Electronics has them at $14.50 BUT there's a MOQ of 5 so $72.50 so there's some hope of finding a connector, if that's the way to go.
The pins burnt away / missing just happen to be "Pin14 Battery+" and "Pin15 Ground" so no surprise there. Note B+ is "HOT" all the time and fed from the 30A Fuse "SEO B2" located under the hood, so it may be worth checking out the harness and the fuse.
The other pins possibly affected are Pin4, Pin5, Pin6, Pin7, remember Pin1 is on the opposite side on the pump compared to the connector
I'll post an annotated picture to help.
My guess there's some history on this, the fuse should have blown, there's been some service work on the pump or the pump has failed catastrophically
The connector as it's a complete mess, so not easy to analyse.
If you have any more history it would be good to know, please keep us posted.
Google "Delphi 15326390" you'll find sellers, most show zero stock,t Mouser says "available on back order" but there may be more suppliers, it was just a quick look
However Nexus Electronics has them at $14.50 BUT there's a MOQ of 5 so $72.50 so there's some hope of finding a connector, if that's the way to go.
The pins burnt away / missing just happen to be "Pin14 Battery+" and "Pin15 Ground" so no surprise there. Note B+ is "HOT" all the time and fed from the 30A Fuse "SEO B2" located under the hood, so it may be worth checking out the harness and the fuse.
The other pins possibly affected are Pin4, Pin5, Pin6, Pin7, remember Pin1 is on the opposite side on the pump compared to the connector
I'll post an annotated picture to help.
My guess there's some history on this, the fuse should have blown, there's been some service work on the pump or the pump has failed catastrophically
The connector as it's a complete mess, so not easy to analyse.
If you have any more history it would be good to know, please keep us posted.
#4
#6
Yeah I was very lucky the whole thing did not go on fire. The Bosch abs module is discontinued so I will have to get a second hand one and have it coded to the car. My main problem is I am in Ireland so sourcing one will be a problem. Any help would be appreciated!
#7
That's for all the information - this has been really helpful!
When I got the abs module out I could see that there had been some repair work on it before so there has been some issues there in the past for sure. While I am trying to source the replacement parts I will get an auto electrician to look at the car to try and source the problem or the burn out will just happen again and next time the whole car could go up in flames. I am in Ireland so sourcing parts will be a pain in the ***. The part number on my abs module does not seem to listed anywhere - is there another part number that this model goes by? It's a Bosch 5.3 I think. Also how can I test the abs pump? Thanks for all your help!
When I got the abs module out I could see that there had been some repair work on it before so there has been some issues there in the past for sure. While I am trying to source the replacement parts I will get an auto electrician to look at the car to try and source the problem or the burn out will just happen again and next time the whole car could go up in flames. I am in Ireland so sourcing parts will be a pain in the ***. The part number on my abs module does not seem to listed anywhere - is there another part number that this model goes by? It's a Bosch 5.3 I think. Also how can I test the abs pump? Thanks for all your help!
#8
I found this unit - it looks the same as mine - will it work do you think? https://www.gmpartsprime.com/genuine...)&location=pd:,
#9
@Hummertime1
That's a tough question it looks the same, so it might be worth having a conversation with them to verify.
There's also the cost angle, it's expensive but new, which is a good plus. There are eBay repair services, but may not be able to deal with a "burnt-out" connector or PCB, again it might be worth messaging them.
On the UK Hummer Owners Club on Facebook, there's a guy who seems to sell everything, don't know how good he is, but you can join and put out a request. There may even be a UK American car parts supplier who may stock one (typically more expensive though)
BTW I'm in Birmingham UK.
One thing, when handling electronic connector pin's, connectors, contacts etc, it's a MUST not to handle them with bare fingers (wear latex gloves) The grease from your hands corrodes contacts over time, this leads to increased contact resistance, that increases contact heat (I²R Loss) and so the heat causes more resistance, thus thermal "run-away" occurs and things burn out.
Use pure IPA (IsoPropyl Alcohol) fast drying, no film, no grease contact cleaner to de-grease the contacts. Use NO silicon grease, NO WD40, NO switch cleaners, they can cause the very condition we wish to avoid.
That's a tough question it looks the same, so it might be worth having a conversation with them to verify.
There's also the cost angle, it's expensive but new, which is a good plus. There are eBay repair services, but may not be able to deal with a "burnt-out" connector or PCB, again it might be worth messaging them.
On the UK Hummer Owners Club on Facebook, there's a guy who seems to sell everything, don't know how good he is, but you can join and put out a request. There may even be a UK American car parts supplier who may stock one (typically more expensive though)
BTW I'm in Birmingham UK.
One thing, when handling electronic connector pin's, connectors, contacts etc, it's a MUST not to handle them with bare fingers (wear latex gloves) The grease from your hands corrodes contacts over time, this leads to increased contact resistance, that increases contact heat (I²R Loss) and so the heat causes more resistance, thus thermal "run-away" occurs and things burn out.
Use pure IPA (IsoPropyl Alcohol) fast drying, no film, no grease contact cleaner to de-grease the contacts. Use NO silicon grease, NO WD40, NO switch cleaners, they can cause the very condition we wish to avoid.
#10
I found this unit - it looks the same as mine - will it work do you think? https://www.gmpartsprime.com/genuine...)&location=pd:,