2005 H2 with 58k miles sitting for 5 years
#1
2005 H2 with 58k miles sitting for 5 years
Hey all new here I’m going to be picking up a 2005 H2 from my father’s neighbor. He’s the original owner but hasn’t driven the truck in probably 5-6 years. Needs a good detail in and out and some tires and a full tuneup and fluid flush. Anything I should be looking for? Truck was out of gas when it was last driven so thankfully no old gas sitting but put new gas in it and was able to get it started but we turned it off right away since the fluids been sitting didn’t want it running for more than a few seconds.
what else should I be looking for?
what else should I be looking for?
#4
Brakes may or may not be seized. Look for evidence of leaking brake fluid from moisture rotting lines from inside out. Tires flat spots or dry rot.
Corroded cylinders, especially in moist (aka Florida and maritime) areas). Look for blowing blue smoke. Did you lube cylinders before starting?
Check to see if exhaust is rotted. Change ALL fluids, all 9 of them. Lube grease nipples.
Load drop test battery. Likely weak now.
Corroded cylinders, especially in moist (aka Florida and maritime) areas). Look for blowing blue smoke. Did you lube cylinders before starting?
Check to see if exhaust is rotted. Change ALL fluids, all 9 of them. Lube grease nipples.
Load drop test battery. Likely weak now.
#5
Sitting for 5-6 years? Chances are for the first year or so if you drive it every day it’s going to have a lot of issues just from not being driven/maintained, but once you get through that period of everything being broken, it’ll be good to you. Was it sitting outside or inside? Climate controlled or no?
#6
Brakes may or may not be seized. Look for evidence of leaking brake fluid from moisture rotting lines from inside out. Tires flat spots or dry rot.
Corroded cylinders, especially in moist (aka Florida and maritime) areas). Look for blowing blue smoke. Did you lube cylinders before starting?
Check to see if exhaust is rotted. Change ALL fluids, all 9 of them. Lube grease nipples.
Load drop test battery. Likely weak now.
Corroded cylinders, especially in moist (aka Florida and maritime) areas). Look for blowing blue smoke. Did you lube cylinders before starting?
Check to see if exhaust is rotted. Change ALL fluids, all 9 of them. Lube grease nipples.
Load drop test battery. Likely weak now.
#7
Fuel
Engine
Coolant
Windshield
Steering
Brake
Front Differential
Transmission
Transfer case
Rear Differential
#8
#9
Get a anti-freeze test strip and check the acidity of the coolant. If its off the scale on the acid side consider a transmission radiator cooler bypass or replace the radiator. If it near to normal PH do a total coolant replacement and flush (don't forget the heater core)
The other fluids are important too, but the anti-freeze is the one that if it was never changed and became highly acidic it will destroy the trans cooler located inside the radiator, Even a small pin hole will allow coolant into the trans and immediately destroy it.
Also when you all done with the fluids and you have had time to put a few mile on it crawl under the dash and look up at the firewall where the hydroboost rod attaches to the brake pedal, check for leaks. A common problem with older GM HD's that haven't been used in a long time.
If you need to remove door panels be very gentle with them as they are prone to cracking. Also if you have a sunroof make sure the drains are working and not plugged.
The other fluids are important too, but the anti-freeze is the one that if it was never changed and became highly acidic it will destroy the trans cooler located inside the radiator, Even a small pin hole will allow coolant into the trans and immediately destroy it.
Also when you all done with the fluids and you have had time to put a few mile on it crawl under the dash and look up at the firewall where the hydroboost rod attaches to the brake pedal, check for leaks. A common problem with older GM HD's that haven't been used in a long time.
If you need to remove door panels be very gentle with them as they are prone to cracking. Also if you have a sunroof make sure the drains are working and not plugged.
#10
Get a anti-freeze test strip and check the acidity of the coolant. If its off the scale on the acid side consider a transmission radiator cooler bypass or replace the radiator. If it near to normal PH do a total coolant replacement and flush (don't forget the heater core)
The other fluids are important too, but the anti-freeze is the one that if it was never changed and became highly acidic it will destroy the trans cooler located inside the radiator, Even a small pin hole will allow coolant into the trans and immediately destroy it.
Also when you all done with the fluids and you have had time to put a few mile on it crawl under the dash and look up at the firewall where the hydroboost rod attaches to the brake pedal, check for leaks. A common problem with older GM HD's that haven't been used in a long time.
If you need to remove door panels be very gentle with them as they are prone to cracking. Also if you have a sunroof make sure the drains are working and not plugged.
The other fluids are important too, but the anti-freeze is the one that if it was never changed and became highly acidic it will destroy the trans cooler located inside the radiator, Even a small pin hole will allow coolant into the trans and immediately destroy it.
Also when you all done with the fluids and you have had time to put a few mile on it crawl under the dash and look up at the firewall where the hydroboost rod attaches to the brake pedal, check for leaks. A common problem with older GM HD's that haven't been used in a long time.
If you need to remove door panels be very gentle with them as they are prone to cracking. Also if you have a sunroof make sure the drains are working and not plugged.