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What happened to the pan with drain you were going to get? Did you find one?
The OEM pan does scrape and exhaust has to be levered. Wiggling the pan makes it go on/off only one way. Bit of a trick.
The OEM pan is not shallow. It is just right. My Dorman drain pan was the same dimensionally.
I tighten the pan bolts just like doing a wheel on a car. First all snug, then cross tightening a little at a time. Do this 2x. Then final torque on them in a similar fashion.
Keeps things nice and flat with even pressure on the pan.
Even then, do not be surprised if it leaks, and needs retorquing bit past what is recommended to stop seepage. By feel and experience, not with gauge.
Sure do not like that video above. The guy torques up the bolts to full torque in one pass. He also beats on the seal like a maniac. You can score the passage that way.
Some seals are plastic also, and easier to remove. I think you may do more damage trying to pull a metal seal rather than leaving it alone and reusing it.
Hi @finallI fitted a SKP SK265811, Dorman was out-of-stock at the time, yes it's looks exactly the same visually and dimensionally as the original, except for the drain plug.
I tried "levering" the exhaust pipe, but still couldn't quite get the gap, bear in mind my exhaust had new CATs so the geometry could be a little off, though everything looks alright and fits 100% OK.
Yes I tightened in the pattern I posted (borrowed from ChrisFix) After torquing-up the 1st time, I repeated until the pan "settled in" perhaps 3 more attempts. I think the rubber seal deforms "slowly" and takes a little time to settle.
Based on research I used 10 ft-lbs (GM recommends 8 ft-lbs) which as you say is "past recommended" I did use a digital torque meter, it allows you to "feel" the target point as there is no sudden "click" when the limit is reached. It allows you to judge by hand then confirm the reading. It's amazing how accurate your sense of torque is.
As it happens (touch-wood) there was/are no leaks. I took great care to clean the Tx case and remove all the old rubber and corrosion until the surface was smooth and looked blemish free (no metal tools)
Yes I was tempted to leave the seal in, however in trying to pull it out I was worried I may have scored then inner rubber, so this decided things for me. Perhaps I should have left it, but people seem instant it be changed, may be it matches the filter pipe diameter or degrades?
I tried making a custom tool, but abandoned the idea due to the risk of scoring the aluminium bore (not good)
The Bore for the seal is approx 24.75mm (0.9745") in diameter and has a 1mm (0.0395") chamfer for the "lip" of the seal to "sink" into. The seal is comprised of a hard rubber (the seal) bonded to a metal collar, the key point is the metal "Press-Fits" into the bore, the only way it's coming out is by either using a special tool or as described below.
I used a thin diameter punch and gently tapped inwards on the very lip-edge of the seal, in two places, until it collapsed, then I pulled it out with pliers once it was clear. Better to avoid the bore which is the most important surface. The chamfer is only there to get the seal "flush" with the surface of the "D-Shaped" recess, it's the "seal to bore" that forms the fluid barrier and the seal-rubber to plastic filter.
The lip of the seal measures 25.80mm (1.0155") and as mentioned sinks into the chamfer. A 19mm long socket measures 25.89mm (1.1095") which is wide enough to cover the sea,l yet narrow enough to fit in the "D-Shaped" recess. The secret was to align and and "square" the seal then gently tap until it "starts" Once "started" I was able to tap it completely flush with the recess, unfortunately I don't have a good picture of this.
By the time I'd figured out what to do and the tools I needed, it probably took 1.5 Hours to remove and fit.
By the way the ring magnet easily fitted over the drain plug, which is the same location as the old pan.
Getting the dips stick to the correct level was tricky, yes vehicle was level, hot and then engine idling, but the low-tide and high-tide limits on the dip-stick seem very close, maybe only 0.5 quarts?
The color of the fluid is still not great, I know less than 1/2 was changed, but I'm think of draining (now I can) and re-filling again after a 2K miles, any thoughts?
Also, for some reason, my door locks no longer dis-engage when I go back into park, could I have dislodged or changed something? (i.e. could it be related?)
@oceanbrave
Sounds like you did a good job. My replacement "seal" supplied with an OEM GM trany filter was plastic, not rubber-coated metal.
I "flush" the trany by draining and filling 3 times. With an interval of only about 200 km each time.
Assuming only 50% comes out each time, that means after flush #2, 75% of old fluid is removed. And 7/8 of the old fluid is removed after flush #3.
Do not wait for 2K miles (~3K km), as that is way way too long, especially if your old fluid is still not "new pink" color.
Just make sure you go thru all the gears, including neutral and reverse. Then drain and repeat. You want the mixed fluid to look like new fluid. Only stop at that point.
Fluid is cheap, and now you have a drain plug. So each flush is a 1/2 hour job with cleanup.
Best to stick with OEM fluid. I do not like mixing fluids, especially since so much does not come out, like you say. I think there may be a way to drain the torque converter to remove more fluid, but I never attempted it. It will also flush with this procedure. So no need really.
Yes, the low and high tide marks are only about 1 pint apart. Confirming that.
Yes I was tempted to leave the seal in, however in trying to pull it out I was worried I may have scored then inner rubber, so this decided things for me. Perhaps I should have left it, but people seem instant it be changed, may be it matches the filter pipe diameter or degrades?
Nice Work! Yes indeed the seal is important to make sure filter pickup tube is sealed tight so fluid is flowing properly.
Just monitor the fluid color! Use a paper towel so you can see if drain and fill is required.
10-01-2021, 06:41 PM
